Why not Clipping to Half-Dome Cables

[alg23]

I asked the ranger at the base of the cables about clipping in since it seems really stupid, she confirmed that was.

Unless you have a proper shock absorber you're pretty much as good as dead anyway (fall factor of 5 or 10 - even dynamic rope won't help there). And the cables aren't designed to take a fall. She said the park never tested it, but her guess is that while you won't break the cable the shock might knock other people off balance and could break a pole or two. Remember there will probably be dozens of people holding on to the cable too that you are endangering.

And seriously it isn't that hard. If you slip, gripping the cable is plenty of protection for anyone with a normal level of fitness. Reclipping at every post just slows you down, distracts you, and makes it hard to pass other hikers.

-A

[Tollermom]

So I'll save the money from buying a climbing harness and spend it on a pair of Five Ten Guide Tennie shoes for my trip.

[longri]

I clipped in one time on the way down, carrying a heavy load. Moving the carabiner past obstructions took about 2 seconds.

The idea that it's equivalent to a vertical free-fall is absurd. Maybe you'd get a nasty jolt at the end of your slide but that would be better than continuing.

A safer approach would be to use a friction knot. It would be more time consuming but I'd go with that if I were using the cables in the off-season.

[fishmonger]

we already clipped in the first time we went up in 1988 and again in 89. I can only explain the fact that others don't do it with ignorance or a lack of imagination as to what can happen when you begin to slip or get pushed, etc.

I grew up in Europe, so maybe being exposed to "Klettersteig" or "Via Ferrata" technique is responsible for my in the US unorthodox use of such gear. But hey, it's a free country, let those who think the pile of gloves at the bottom of the cables means that's all you need go right ahead. Statistically, it does appear to be rather safe. I prefer to be a wuss and clip in.

[Ken M]

I've not used a harness/lanyard setup while climbing HD, typically climbing on the outside of the cables, but it's a shame to have poor information.

For the uses being discussed, 7mm static cord, like all big wall climbers use for prussiks, etc, will work just fine.

Static lines are not being used for long distant falls, we're talking a short distance, sliding on rock.

Remembering that ALL top ropes at commercial climbing gyms are static, with similar fall distances and stresses, this should be quite safe.

You can go with thicker, up to full climbing rope, but they'll be stiffer, and knots will hold less well and be harder to tie, so I'd actually prefer the smaller diameter accessory cords that are more supple and easier to handle.

[Robo_Hiker]

2011 was my fourth trip to the top of Half Dome. It was my gf's first time up the rock and she's not a fan of heights...despite doing a couple trad routes at Red Rock and Courtright in the past with me. We decided to take harness, PAS (personal anchor system) and locking biners for a little added security. While we each had to locking biner's on the PAS so we would always be locked on one side of the stanchion, we both just clipped and unclipped one. Despite clipping, we were probably the quickest on the route.

Now, the really cool thing about having some sort of anchor and harness system is waiting for the inevitable stops on the way up. We were usually able to anchor at the stanchion and then just lean back and enjoy the view.

In regards to the entire safety issue of loading the biner, I think it's kind of a moot point. If you take a hard enough fall to break even an open gate biner (8kn), there's no way you're going to stop with non-mechanical means.

[maverick]

Hi Robo_Hiker,

Welcome to HST! Thanks for your input on this subject.

[HikeSierraNevada]

People shouldn't mock this idea. My wife used a simple carabiner and rope tied to her belt on the first of her 6 climbs up the cables many years ago. We've noticed the rock and cable seem to be getting slicker every time we go.

If it keeps someone moving instead of freaking out, then it's worth it for that person as well as everyone else on the cables. If you're passing someone, just work around them.

[LightRanger]

Wow. There's really a lot of "pseudo-climber" misinformation in this thread.

"Factor 5-10"? And all these years I thought the maximum fall factor was 2. Silly me.

And climbing gyms use static ropes? Huh. Interesting. I bet their insurers would be interested to know that information.

My (unsolicited) advice: start hiking at 4am or 4pm. Either way should put you on the cables when you shouldn't feel the need to clip in. If you do feel the need, while a dynamic sling you be ideal if you happened to fall, just make your sling is long enough that you cheesegrater on the granite and friction slows you down. Your fall factor at that point should be low enough that it won't matter if you've got a static sling. Hitting the post might hurt a bit, but shouldn't do any more damage than the fall itself.

As somebody mentioned earlier, your investment would be better made in Guide Tennies. Although even those are a bit overkill.

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[Wandering Daisy]

Thanks light ranger. I am a climber and that is my opinion too. If you need to clip in on some phony sling and caribiner set up so as not to "freak out", perhaps you should not be doing the route. The sling set-up shown is NOT a "ferreta" (sorry cannot spell and forgot the whole term used) system. The cables are not specifically designed for this method, as they are in the Italian Dolomites. Good shoes with sticky rubber sole is a better idea. Even a vibrum sole is better than tennis shoes. Also, if you think you will need gloves, bring your own high quality good fitting gloves with grip. That junk they have at the base of the cables are worn out ill fitting gloves. I recall the cable posts are about 8-10 feet apart. That may not sound like a long distance but fall a the top and slide down and have your "sling" it the bottom and that is a lot of force both on you and the system. And as stated, going up in crowds is not fun in any event. I always went up day before and camped just below the Clouds Rest trial junction and hit the cables very early morning with few if any other people on the route.