Seven Gables Peak from Sierra High Route

[snowpatch]

I'm planning a traverse of the Sierra High Route this summer and would like to spend an extra day in the Bear Basin and hopefully climb Seven Gables if weather permitting. Roper states the peak can be easily reached from the high route by following brook down from Ursa Lake to junction of East Fork of Bear Creek. He then directs the reader to ascend talus slope to saddle. I understand this to mean that I would be ascending the east side of the peak. From the topo map, it looks like there is a glacier on this side below the saddle. Is ice ax required? Is this route feasible? It looks very steep on the topo.

All the internet reports of the climb I have read (except for class 4) take off from the west side of the peak to ascend the saddle. It looks like a long walk from Ursa lake to traverse around that steep NW ridge. Is that the best way?

I would be very thankful for any suggestions or advise.

[maverick]

The western approach from Sandpiper Lake to the ridge is class 2 and then
class 3 from the ridge to the summit. There is a permanent snowfield on the
western slope but this is easily by-passed, its an easy route, especially after
Snow-Tongue.
The eastern class 4 route looked like fun but make sure you have some climbing
experience.
Depending on the time of year you can get to the foot of Seven Gables without
stepping on snow or start a little north of the route and climb diagonal to the
start of the route or a little above.

[BrianF]

Seven Gables has been a goal of mine for a couple of years now and I have a trip planned to Bear Lakes basin this fall to climb it. From what I have seen the saddle can be accessed from the east without snow at 3rd class, but of course it depends on snow pack when you go. Here is a shot of Seven Gables from Royce peak in October a couple of years ago

[giantbrookie]

The chute to the saddle north of Seven Gables is steep class 2 talus/scree. This gives access to the comparatively gentle class 2 northwest slopes of Seven Gables. As noted in the above post, because of the east-facing nature of the chute, it will have snow in it early season and how early the snow is gone in the summer will depend on how heavy the winter is (this is shaping up to be a moderately heavy one) and how warm the spring/early summer is. The NW slopes are most easily accessed from Sandpiper L. as noted above, but it would a very long end-around to get there from where you'll be.

[mokelumnekid]

Did the east route- up to saddle from peanut-shaped lake then ridge to summit. It was easy class 2 with no snow in mid-Aug, but a loose sandy chute at the top. See pics at:

http://tinyurl.com/4t8fur

[kgw]

Did the east route- up to saddle from peanut-shaped lake then ridge to summit. It was easy class 2 with no snow in mid-Aug, but a loose sandy chute at the top. See pics at:

http://tinyurl.com/4t8fur

Great pics! Looks like you two had a nice hike. . .