Central Wind Rivers, 8/3-8/11

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Wandering Daisy
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Central Wind Rivers, 8/3-8/11

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Scab Creek to Elkhart. 8/3 to 8/11 2018

Panoramas added at bottom, Nov 3

My friend from Bozeman joined me on my third trip. With two cars we could do a true thru-hike between trailheads. About 7 miles, from the upper East Fork to Lee Lake would be missed by using the Scab Creek trailhead. Car logistics between Elkhart and Scab Creek trailheads are significantly easier than the more than 2 hour drive on long dirt roads to start from Big Sandy, required to exactly connect with where I had left off on my second trip.

I left Lander the day before the trip and met my friend, Steve, at Elkhart Park where we camped in the FS campground, scoring the last campsite available. It rained cats and dogs but Steve had a truck camper so we stayed dry.


Day 1. Scab Creek to Boulder Creek (8.1 miles, +2145 feet)

We were up early, ate a quick breakfast, parked Steve’s truck at Elkhart and drove my car to Pinedale to purchase last-minute supplies. The parking lot at the Scab Creek trailhead was nearly full! The immediately ascends 1300 feet to a bench full of small stagnant ponds. I had the unfair advantage of already being acclimated but still was slow due to my sore feet. It was Steve’s first backpack in a few years, slowing him down too. We met several groups exiting, which explained the full parking lot. The trail was actually in better shape than either of us had experienced in the past. Often this heavily used horse trail is muddy and rutted.

Before we reached Little Divide Lake, where several groups were camped, we got caught in a heavy rain that soon cleared. Although tempted to stop at Lightning Lake, we slowly continued to the trail junction at the crossing of Boulder Creek, where one can first see the mountains in the distance. Water was low but we still had to wade across to a nice grassy flat where we set up camp. We set up the tent and cooked dinner in the fading light. It lightly frosted by early morning.
8873_Boulder Creek Camp.jpg
Day 2. Boulder Creek to Lee Lake. (7.1 miles, +1120 feet).

We awoke to hazy, smoky conditions. We continued on a well-used trail to Dream Lake, located on the Fremont Trail (CDT). We then started up a less used trail to Rainbow Lake, choosing the trail along the west shoreline, when it would have been better to take the east shoreline trail. The trail becomes harder to follow to the saddle west of Lee Lake, and then it descended, only to go missing. Off trail travel is easy to Lee Lake, so the trail was not really needed With his long legs Steve was able to hop rocks across the outlet of Lee Lake; I had to wade.

We found a nice sheltered campsite on the hillside near the outlet. Unfortunately it was hazy from smoke and clouds were rolling in. This lake is much more beautiful than the photos here show. I collected water, took a chilly dip and went fishing. No luck at Lee Lake, so I dropped down the drainage along many wide parts of the creek and small ponds where I caught enough 6-8 inch Brook trout to fill my pot. Steve meandered around enjoying the mountains. We had both been here many times in our old NOLS days. Two other fellows were camped at Lee Lake; they were hoping to climb Nylon Peak the next day.
8884_Camp_LeeLk.jpg

Day 3. Lee Lake to Halls Lake (5.0 miles, +450 feet)
8885_Lee Lake Rain.jpg
We awoke to threatening skies which turned to a drizzle as we departed. It rained off-and-on most of the day. Getting around the north shores of the very large Middle Fork Lake was an exercise in avoiding brush when possible but we still were soaked by the wet vegetation as we worked our way to the outlet. We stepped over the indistinct Photo Pass Trail and traveled off-trail past small ponds and an odd shaped lake. It was pretty country with wildflowers but the indistinct landscape made navigation tricky. I had been here before so simply headed around the south buttress of Pt. 11506, which I recognized. For a while skies cleared. We then dropped to Halls Creek Lake #12, which flows into Halls Lake.
8888_wildflowers_MiddleForkL.jpg
When we reached Halls Lake outlet, rain drops again fell. We quickly set up the tent on the north side of the outlet, at an established campsite, just before thunder claps broke the silence. It rained hard for a while. When the storm subsided, we decided not to continue, and more carefully set the tent.
8897_Little Halls.jpg
After a bath and washing my shirt, I dropped down from the outlet to fish, with no luck. Then I went to the inlet from Shoestring Lake and again, no luck. Later in the evening I spotted a few fish near the outlet. Again, it was quite windy so the fish were not much into feeding. I do not think there are a lot of fish in Halls Lake. On our walk here from Lee Lake, we had spotted many fish in Middle Fork Lake and many smaller lakes. Too bad I did not fish those lakes! I had hoped to reach Europe Canyon and the fish-filled lakes there but the weather and our slowness prevented that.
8900_Halls Lk.jpg
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Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Sat Nov 03, 2018 4:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Central Wind Rivers, 8/3-8/11

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Day 4. Halls Lake to North Fork Lake #1. (6.7 miles, +1170 feet)

Thankfully the previous day’s rain had washed the haze and smoke out of the skies. The travel to Europe Creek Lake #4 (10542) was quite lovely, lush with grasses and wildflowers and passing several creeks and small lakes. The camping along the south shores of this lake was beautiful and we regretted not making it here the previous day. Given that it had taken us 3 hours to get here, morning fresh and with good weather, we had to admit, that staying at Halls Lake was the right decision at the time.
8906_near Halls Lake.jpg
8913_EuropeCrLk#xx_B&W.jpg
8916_EuropeCr_Lk.jpg
Instead of going through the boulders along the east shore, we took the easier but longer route to the outlet and then a use-trail along the northwest shores. There were plenty of fish rising in this lake. Just before reaching Europe Creek Lake #6 (10741), we left the trail and headed to Long Lake. Overcast skies, not smoke, made photos quite dismal. This too, is a more stunning lake than my photos show.
8921_LongLk_B&W.jpg
8929_LongLk_Nancy.jpg
8930_LongL.jpg
Traversing Long Lake is very tricky, but we found a good route. Mid-shore we dropped into a lush amazing little pocket meadow full of wildflowers. The remaining traverse to the inlet was difficult, full of boulders on a bench above the lake. Once to the inlet, we were attacked by a few nasty horse flies. Continuing to Glacier Lake, the ”trail” comes and goes and then mostly goes missing while we made our way through bogs and brush. Ugh! For future reference, the north side of the lake would have been easier in spite of a “trail” shown on the south side. Campsites were marginal so we continued to the next lake downstream (North Fork Lake#1), finding a nice campsite north of the outlet.

After setting up and taking a needed bath and washing clothes, I circled around this lake fishing. There were nice fish at the inlet, but they were not interested in my fly. Again I was frustrated by passing lakes with lots of fish, only to end the day at a lake with few fish with little interest in feeding. But it was a beautiful smokeless day.
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Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Sat Sep 01, 2018 5:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Central Wind Rivers, 8/3-8/11

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Day 5. North Fork Lake#1 to “Douglas” Lake (8.2 miles, +1745 feet)


First order of business was to intersect the Hay Pass Trail. Instead of dropping to Barbara Lake, we traversed to intersect the trail above the lake. Once on this large trail, we quickly reached Hay Pass. As the trail traverses above Dennis Lake, the views are spectacular. We met a gray-bearded very odd fellow in very old gear and a stick for walking; we suspected he was homeless. A short conversation revealed that he likely had some mental problems. This is not the first time I have run into some “wanderers” (harmless but very odd) in this area.
8942_DennisL.jpg
8949_DennisL.jpg

After the trail descends to Golden Lake, we had to wade several creeks before reaching the main trail. We took the fisherman’s trail along the lakes to reach Upper Golden Lake. Here we had to make a decision; we were behind schedule so the original plan to go over Quintet Mountain was scrapped and there would be not enough time to go out via “Wall” Pass to upper Pole Creek. We would instead do an in-and-out trip to Brown Cliffs. Since we would return to this spot, Steve hung most of his food, taking only the two days needed. I took all my food, in case we were delayed.
8956_GoldenLakes.jpg
8961_GoldenLks.jpg
8969_UGoldenL_outlet.jpg
8971_UGolden.jpg

The trail continues to “Camp Pass” crossing three streams. Long-legged Steve jumped rocks: I again waded. This part of our route also is used by two of the Wind River “High Routes” popularized by the internet; we ran into several hikers doing these routes. They were all young and outfitted for “light and fast” travel. What a contrast from the odd old fellow we had met on Hay Pass!
8984_Lake at Camp Pass.jpg
From Camp Pass, the snowbank at the inlet to “Lower Snowbank Lake” was still in place but luckily the snow was soft in the afternoon. We dropped to Camp Lake jumping across boulders both at the inlet and outlet. There used to be a log bridge across the outlet, but it has fallen into the creek. Soon we were at Douglas Lake and found a nice campsite. It was a long day so we just washed up and cooked dinner. It became chilly so we called it a day. The next morning there was frost on the grass.
8997_Douglas Lk.jpg
9002_DouglasL_Fortress.jpg
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Re: Central Wind Rivers, 8/3-8/11

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Day 6. Douglas Lake to Brown Cliffs (2.1 miles, +665 feet)

I had hoped to backpack to Brown Cliffs via Alpine and Snowbridge Lakes, or at least day-hike to a fine viewpoint above Fortress Lake, the lower Alpine Lake before heading to Brown Cliffs. Steve said he rather simply go to Brown Cliffs via the trail and take a rest day. So we found the old trail (built in the 1930’s by WCC), somewhat difficult to follow, to “Talus Lake”. Two more bridges, that were intact a few years ago, had finally seen their day and collapsed. Steve found a rock-hop across the first; I waded. The only way to cross the second creek was on a sloped fallen log upstream of the collapsed bridge. It was a freaky log and I hated the crossing.
9003_Lk below Douglas.jpg

Crossing the outlet of “Talus Lake” required wading for both of us. Steve could not resist a nice pool and took a swim. We then found a great campsite on a bench above the small lake upstream from Lake 10590. It was a gorgeous, sunny, clear day. As I was gathering water and taking a bath, I heard a “splash”. I swore I saw a fish although I thought the lake was barren. Back at camp I assembled my fishing rod and caught a skinny 7-inch golden trout. Then I dropped to the lower lake and caught a nice 12-inch golden. I hooked two more but they got away. The trout, cooked with butter and wrapped in aluminum foil, was delicious.
9012_BrownCliff_Lk_camp.jpg
9014_GodenTrout.jpg
9030_Camp_best.jpg

Day 7. Brown Cliffs to Upper Golden Lake, with day hikes (7.4 miles, +1765 feet)


It was time to return to Golden Lakes. Again there was a light frost in the grass near the lake. After breakfast, we each did a day-hike. I went up to Lake 10980 to photograph and Steve headed up the hillside to the south to get a peek at Snowbridge Lake.
9032_Upper Lake.jpg
9035_Lake 108xx.jpg
9042_B&W.jpg

We left by 10AM and returned via the same route we took two days ago. Two fellows with several goats were fishing down at Lake 10590, right where I caught my fish the previous day. I had dreaded the log crossing at the creek from Snowbridge Lake but managed without falling in. We hopped rocks at the next two crossings. At the crossing above Camp Lake we ran into a group of young men all with the same hat. They were all on a high school cross country team from Wisconsin and were doing the Skurka High Route.
9047_Goats.jpg
9049_Leaving_BrownCliffs.jpg
9004_DouglasL.jpg

Steve and I decided to travel separately each at our own pace. Once I reached the three close crossings just above Upper Golden Lake, I left on my wading shoes until I reached camp at an established site near the outlet. Fishing was dismal although I saw a few small fish in the outlet stream. After retrieving his extra food Steve decided he had way too much so gave away a lot to appreciative High Route hikers who actually were short on food because they were behind schedule.
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Re: Central Wind Rivers, 8/3-8/11

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Day 8. Upper Golden Lake to Pole Creek Crossing (8 miles, +1780 feet)

There is a difficult to follow use-trail to a bench of large lakes east of Angel Pass. From Upper Hay Lake (11125) you can either go south over Fall Creek Pass, or west, over Angel Pass. I vaguely remember going over Angel Pass, but was not sure I really had done it. The east side involves a lot of boulder-hopping and steady but not exceedingly steep climb to the pass. The west side involves a steep initial descent on some tricky ledges and then zig-zag grassy stringers to the east inlet of Spider Lake in Bald Mountain Basin. I managed to break one of my new trekking poles on the descent, as I fell when it was wedged in rocks. I am still not 100% sure that I had gone over this pass so many years ago, but it did seem a bit familiar.
9074_Hay Pass Lk.jpg
9078_Angel Pass east side.jpg

Getting across Bald Mountain Basin is very complex although it looks easy on the map. We each took different routes and met at the Fremont-Highline trail junction on Pole Creek. I had the advantage of being here recently so found a fair route by recognizing land features. I went lower and bashed through some willows; Steve stayed higher and had a few tricky cliffs to descend.
9091_Angel Pass from BMB.jpg

Once on the Highline Trail, we again ran into crowds of people, including a few CDT hikers. A bit of drama was ensuing. CDT hikers had found three cardboard boxes of food on the trail, including fresh meat. A family planning on camping nearby was worried about the meat attracting bears. Evidently the CDT hikers moved the food off the trail and the family was still in a quandary about camping or not when we left (the rest of the story later). We continued the mile and half to an established campsite near the Pole Creek crossing. It was a weekend so plenty of others were camped nearby. Although late in the day, I fished for an hour or so and caught a pot full of small brook trout. It was nearly dark by the time I cooked and ate dinner.
9095_Pond on HighlineTr.jpg

Day 9. Pole Creek Crossing to Elkhart Park TH. (8.7 miles, +885 feet)

We packed up and in a few minutes of walking put on wading shoes and crossed Pole Creek, a long but only calf-to-knee-deep with a very mellow flow. I have crossed here previously when it was nearly waist deep, as well as in a very dry year, when we could hop across on rocks. As we were putting on our hiking shoes we met fellows who were going out. They said they had paid for a commercial resupply but the packer never showed up. Well, there are two “Pole Creek Crossings”. We were at the lower crossing. About 2 miles upstream is a second crossing. Evidently the packer and the clients were not clear on which crossing they would meet. So the packer just dumped the food in the trail (illegal, by the way) near the upper crossing. Steve told the backpackers about the food in the trail the previous day, so one fellow went looking for it. Since the CDT hikers took it upon themselves to “hide” the food, it is not likely the proper owners will find it. Lots of errors here that illustrate exactly how NOT to do a commercial resupply!

It was nice to have shade and morning coolness on the 800-foot ascent to Eklund Lake. Steve and I again hiked separately. As I waited, it was a zoo as crowds passed; a loud group of ex-military guys cussing up a storm, two groups of college kids singing loudly to warn bears, two sets of packers loaded with supplies and several others. I soon lost count of people, including day-hikers and tons of dogs as we walked the last 5 miles to the trailhead. One fellow was carrying his 14-yeare old dog in a baby pack! Dogs going in were shiny and clean; dogs going out were mud-balls. Steve had given me the truck keys, so I opened the camper and took a snooze with my shoes off.

When Steve arrived we sent an In-reach message to my husband that we had arrived and then drove to the trailer park south of Pinedale where Steve dropped me off. He was driving to Bozeman so did not stay long. I got a dog-kiss welcome “home” from our excited border collie and my husband had cold beers waiting. After Steve left, we drove to Scab Creek to retrieve my car. I then unpacked, dried gear, recharged electronics, showered and did laundry while we had full service hookups. It was a busy day!

Unfortunately, Steve found out that there were some medical emergencies at his home and he would not be able to join me for the completion of our route. I found out that my 98-year old mother was in the hospital. At this point, my husband and I took it one day at a time checking in while we were spending four days fishing; two days at the Fremont Lake campground fishing an two days at Whiskey Grove campground on the Green River. My mother insisted that I continue on my backpacks; her nurses assured me that after three days she could go back to her assisted living and there was no immediate reason for me to not continue my trips. My husband had driven all the way here to help me with car logistics, so he also would be disappointed if I did not continue. I altered my fifth trip so that I would not have to carry crampons and an ice axe, instead doing a trans-divide route more suitable for solo.
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Re: Central Wind Rivers, 8/3-8/11

Post by Eiprahs »

Thanks for sharing another great Wind River adventure. Susan and I envy your energy!!
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Re: Central Wind Rivers, 8/3-8/11

Post by Tom_H »

Thanks for giving such a wonderful vicarious experience to a retired oldie! Best wishes for your mother's full recovery. What a wonderful attitude that she insist you not cut short your trip. I see where your spunk comes from! And what a supportive hubby!
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Re: Central Wind Rivers, 8/3-8/11

Post by Wandering Daisy »

It was smoky and rainy when we were at Lee Lake and Middle Fork Lake. Here are two better photos, taken on previous trips.
2009_3611_LeeLk.jpg
MiddleForkL_merged.jpg
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Re: Central Wind Rivers, 8/3-8/11

Post by robertseeburger »

Great pics.. I was just in many of same places myself! Will post shortly. Looks like you had better weather than I did..
Interesting story on the packer issue at the end.. I was considering using a packer like this for some future trip..not so sure now.
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Re: Central Wind Rivers, 8/3-8/11

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Here are some panoramas:
8940-41_DennisLake_edited-2.jpg
8973-4_UGoldenLk_edited-2.jpg
8978-91_Camp Pass.jpg
8989-93_Douglas Lake_edited-2.jpg
8997-9000_Douglas Lake_ALT_edited-1.jpg
9025-26_Unnamed BC Lake_edited-2.jpg
9031-32_BC upper Lakes_edited-2.jpg
9044-45_U BrownCliffs Lakes_small.jpg
9072-4_Lakexxx_Angel Bench_small.jpg
9087-89_Angel Pass BMB_small.jpg
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