TR: Wind Rivers South

A forum that'll feed your need for exploring the limitless adventure possibilities found in "other" places. Post trip reports or ask questions about outdoor adventures beyond the Sierra Nevada here.
Post Reply
User avatar
Wandering Daisy
Topix Docent
Posts: 6640
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:19 pm
Experience: N/A
Location: Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento area)
Contact:

TR: Wind Rivers South

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Southern Wind River Loop: 7/16- 7/21 2018

SEE NEW PANORAMAS - Oct 31, several posts down.

The intent of my summer journey was to complete a thru-route. I had attempted this in 2012 and did not link the route to my northernmost route, hesitant to do a few difficult passes solo. My attempt this summer ended in the same fate- my partner who would do this difficult section with me had to back out due to medical problems with his family. I have walked every mile of the thru-route, but not continuously. Admittedly, thru-hiking is not in my nature; it takes very little to knock me off my plans. Nevertheless, I completed four beautiful routes this summer.

On the first trip, to avoid shuttle costs, the plan was to hike the route to Black Joe Lake and then simply loop back to the starting trailhead, since it would only take two more days.

A rogue bear (the people terrorized said it was a grizzly; the G&F thought it was a black bear) had terrorized backpackers where I had planned to camp starting my trip. I threw out all plans and simply hiked directly to Deep Creek Lakes, with hopes that if I reversed the route, the nasty bear would be gone by the time I reached Stough Creek Basin. Ironically, the G&F “bear guy” lived just houses down from my friend’s house where I was staying. I tried to talk to him, but he was out in the field relocating bears.


Day 1. Roaring Fork/Sheep Bridge TH to Middle Deep Creek Lake (11.2 mi. +2600 feet)

A well-maintained trail drops from the trailhead to Sheep Bridge, crossing the Middle Fork of the Popo Agie. Several youth groups were in the area. Shortly I heard a commotion coming up the trail; evidently the kids were told to make a lot of noise to scare off bears. Then, on the Pinto Park Trail, I again ran into a youth group, girls sitting on the trail while their leader was shouting out for a lost girl separated from the group. What a zoo! It began to rain as I neared the lower Deep Creek Lakes. Although tired, I continued to the middle Deep Creek Lake, where there was good fishing. However, after setting up, I was too tired to fish and decided that I would rather eat up the food I was carrying, even though fish swam around my feet when I crossed the outlet. It was a tough day, made so by my own stupidity of pushing too hard.
8418_Middle Deep CrLk.jpg
Day 2. Middle Deep Creek Lake to Boot Lake (5.2 mi. +910 feet)

I packed early, reaching Upper Deep Creek Lake in time for the wonderful morning light for photos. I waded across the outlet and started towards Black Joe Pass which is on the Continental Divide. Part way up, I was stopped by a snowbank all the way across my route. It was not too steep but without traction and a howling wind, I decided to return to Upper Deep Creek Lake, rather than take chances that the descent gully to Black Joe Lake could also have snow. I that case I could easily get stuck up on the exposed high plateau. I was disappointed, but this also gave me the opportunity to walk the scenic Ice Lakes Trail (which was not included in my original plan) and fish more lakes.
8433_Snow blocking route.jpg
8421_Upper Deep CrLk.jpg
From Upper Deep Creek Lake I intersect the Ice Lakes trail via Ridge Lakes, a route with excellent views. I camped off the trail on the south side of Boot Lake to avoid the masses of youth groups camped on the north side near the trail. I have never seen the area so crowded! This is what happens when there is no permit system. It is hit and miss- can be few people or hordes. I fished the lower lakes with no success but caught some nice brook trout for dinner in Boot Lake. Had I known that my change of plans would make this a relaxed day I would have first fished Middle Deep Creek Lake for a breakfast of fish!
8426_UDeepCr_from_RidgeLks.jpg
8438_Cliff Lake.jpg
8450_BootLk.jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Wed Oct 31, 2018 5:08 pm, edited 3 times in total.
User avatar
Wandering Daisy
Topix Docent
Posts: 6640
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:19 pm
Experience: N/A
Location: Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento area)
Contact:

Re: TR: Wind Rivers South

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Day 3. Boot Lake to Coon Lake (7.6 mi. +1460 feet)

As I returned to the trail I stumbled through a group camped, literally, right on the trail, playing cards and water bottles strewn about, after what likely was an evening party. As I neared Timberline Lake, I ran into several llamas peacefully grazing. Once over the pass I left the circus, dropping to the Tayo Lake Trail, where I did not see a single person. Thank goodness! The Ice Lakes Trail goes past Timberline Lake, then drops to Pass Lake, and finally to Tayo Park, a typical lush meadow that is a reason that there is so much game in the Wind Rivers.
8451_Llamas.jpg
8454_Timberline Lk.jpg
8459_Pass Lake.jpg
8461_Tayo Park.jpg

I passed Poison Lake, continuing along a nice stretch of Tayo Creek which looked like great fishing. I was tempted to stop, but the mosquitoes near the creek changed my mind. As I walked up the trail, I debated between camping at the more scenic Tayo Lake or the better fishing at Coon Lake; I chose the latter, although was skunked at fishing due to white-caps on the lake. But the wind kept the mosquitoes down. I found the exact same campsite I used years ago which was wind-protected in a clump of timber.

After dismal fishing, I decided to walk around the lake, which I had to myself. I explored a slot valley to the edge of the Divide where I could look directly down to Little Sandy Creek. Although disappointed with the fishing, my pack was getting lighter by eating up my supplies.
8471_Little Sandy.jpg
8479_Coon Lake.jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
Wandering Daisy
Topix Docent
Posts: 6640
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:19 pm
Experience: N/A
Location: Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento area)
Contact:

Re: TR: Wind Rivers South

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Day 4. Coon Lake to “Nystrom Lakes” plus side trips (7.5 mi. +2050 feet)


I found a good off-trail route that eventually intersected the trail to Tayo Lake. Water was not high, but I still had to wade across the creek. I decided to drop my pack at the outlet and day-hike to the upper lake (which I had never visited), going up the drainage and coming back on the slopes of Wind River Peak. The upper lake was amazing and wildflowers bloomed everywhere.
8514_TayoLake.jpg
8491_Upper Tayo Lk.jpg
8507_Upper Tayo Lk.jpg
8509_Wildflowers_UTayo.jpg

Back at my pack, I followed the trail back down to the junction with the Coon Lake trail, where I had been the day before, wading across two more creeks. Then I cut over to Mountain Sheep Lake, tempted to stop and camp. Here I could rock-hop across the outlet. There still was plenty of daylight, and I preferred to go over Mountain Sheep Pass in the afternoon when snow was soft. The pass has a large snowfield with a permanent cornice that requires enough melt-out on the rocky edge to squeeze down between snow and rock. I was not sure it would be passable; if not I would have to return to Mountain Sheep Lake and take the trail to Sweetwater Gap. At the top, I scouted the route and decided it would go. I had a cord ready in case I had to lower my pack. Luckily, I was able to down climb this 3rd class section.


Years ago I had day-hiked to the “Nystrom Lakes” which sit in a bowl above the main valley. The route is difficult with steep slabs. It was late when I arrived at the base of the cliffs, but campsites were marginal, so I started up. This time I followed a game trail, which required some tight bushwhacking, but was able to detour the exposed cliffs. I was exhausted when I arrived at the lower lake and immediately took a bath! That felt better. Then I set about to find a campsite (very limited options), ending up on a grassy bench right under a cliff. The chance of rock fall was minimal and a huge detached boulder should protect me. It was a nice site, but early into evening shadows. Photography would have to wait for the morning light since this little cirque faced northeast.
8527_Nystrom Lk Camp.jpg
8534_Nystrom Lakes.jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
Wandering Daisy
Topix Docent
Posts: 6640
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:19 pm
Experience: N/A
Location: Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento area)
Contact:

Re: TR: Wind Rivers South

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Day 5. Nystrom Lakes to Shoal Lake (7.1 mi. +1555 feet)

Clouds on the eastern horizon blocked the sun for a while. I waited a bit to get better photos, but had to descend before the sun was totally clear of the clouds. I then packed up and descended back to the valley.
8530_NystromLk.jpg
I cut over to the Sweetwater Gap Trail, south of the pass, surprised that the large meadow I had to cross was dry; previous trips it was always a swamp. At Sweetwater Gap I left the trail to go up Basco Creek. I wanted to try a different route, which turned out to be inferior to the route I found years ago. My new route involved too much bushwhacking to be pleasant. I ended up too far north when I crossed the arm of Roaring Fork Mountain, so had to traverse the ridge quite a distance before I could drop into “Toadstool Lakes”.
8544_Nystrom Cirque from Roaring Fk Mtn.jpg
8550_Toadstool Pond.jpg
What possessed me, I do not know, but I then wasted a good two hours trying to find the perfect campsite at Footprint Lake, only to return to Shoal Lake, where I set up at an established campsite. I was now exhausted, but fished the shoreline near my campsite and caught two nice fish for dinner. That rogue bear was in the back of my mind while I fished. I washed up before going into the tent and kept my bear spray handy. Thankfully no bears visited me, but a few backpackers walked by.
8580_Shoal L.jpg

Day 6. Shoal Lake to Roaring Fork TH (8.2 mi. +1030 feet)

I awoke early and hiked around the upper Toadstool Lakes, supposedly barren so I did not take fishing gear. Well, the lakes had fish and I regretted not bringing the fishing rod. This certainly is a place that I will return to in the future.
8573_Toadstool U Lk.jpg
Back at camp I packed up and headed east, over a pass, to drop into the Roaring Fork drainage, with plans to camp at Leg Lake. Ascent to the “pass” was steep and strenuous. As I dropped down the northeast side, an unexpected snow patch blocked my route. A few sketchy steps were needed to get down.
8583_Cutthroat Lk.jpg

I then tried out a new route directly on the ridge north of Leg Lake. It looked easy on the map, and also on Google Earth, but turned out to be a nightmarish krumholtz puzzle. I got dead-ended several times, but finally arrived at Leg Lake. Being a weekend, there were many fishermen. Leg Lake can get crowded since it has golden trout and is accessible as a day-trip. The fishermen cast off a 20-foot cliff, far into the lake, bringing in small golden trout. They certainly were better fly-casters then me. It was fun to watch them.
8591_Leg Lake.jpg
Being early afternoon I decided to go down-drainage farther, perhaps camping on lower Roaring Fork Creek where there is also good fishing. Half-way down it started to rain. Soon it was pouring; I opted to simply walk out to my car. This perhaps was not the best decision since the long day beat up my feet. But I did appreciate the nice meal and cold beer I had at my friend’s house. It was a good trip, although my intent of thru-hiking had failed from Day 1!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
fish4gold
Topix Regular
Posts: 182
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2009 9:19 pm
Experience: Level 3 Backpacker

Re: TR: Wind Rivers South

Post by fish4gold »

WD, those are some spectacular photos!!!! Thanks for a great tr! This past July I headed into “flying monkey lake” for my second year and second skunk. That country isn’t nearly as spectacular as this! I’ll have to try something different if I get another chance. Thanks again for posting!
User avatar
gary c.
Topix Fanatic
Posts: 1479
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2006 4:56 pm
Experience: N/A
Location: Lancaster, CA

Re: TR: Wind Rivers South

Post by gary c. »

Thank you! I always enjoy your pictures and reports.
"On this proud and beautiful mountain we have lived hours of fraternal, warm and exalting nobility. Here for a few days we have ceased to be slaves and have really been men. It is hard to return to servitude."
-- Lionel Terray
User avatar
Wandering Daisy
Topix Docent
Posts: 6640
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:19 pm
Experience: N/A
Location: Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento area)
Contact:

Re: TR: Wind Rivers South

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Here are a few panoramas.
02_UDeepCreekLk_merge_edited-3.jpg
10_UTayo_merged_edited-2.jpg
12_UTayo_merge_edited-2.jpg
17_Lakexxxx_mergedcrop_edited-1.jpg
20_StoughCreek_merge_edited-2.jpg
23_Cutthroat Lake_Merged_edited-2.jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
Tom_H
Topix Expert
Posts: 795
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2012 1:11 pm
Experience: Level 4 Explorer
Location: Camas, WA

Re: TR: Wind Rivers South

Post by Tom_H »

Wow! Always such a joy to see and read your TR. Your framing technique of Little Sandy was perfect.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 27 guests