Papoose Lake Trip Report (Long Winded As Usual)

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Lumbergh21
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Papoose Lake Trip Report (Long Winded As Usual)

Post by Lumbergh21 »

Late Thursday afternoon, I left work for the Hobo Gulch trailhead. I had originally planned to leave around 1:00 and hike to Papoose Lake and Grizzly Lake both, but I couldn’t get away from work that early. It was just as well, as my wife wanted me back in time for dinner on Saturday, and doing 20 mile days to make that happen wouldn’t have been the relaxing trip I wanted anyway.

The adventure began with the drive to the trailhead itself. After stopping at the ranger station in Weaverville to fill out my self-issued Wilderness Permit, so they would know where to find my body if my wife decided to report me missing but forgot where I had gone; I continued west on Hwy 299 to East Fork Road. After about 3 miles on East Fork Road I arrived at the dirt forest service road that would take me to Hobo Gulch. After 15 miles and one hour of driving the sun had dropped low in the sky, or at least that was my guess. The gray overcast skies made any definitive determination impossible.

I grabbed my pack off the back seat of my car and left the world behind. There were no trailhead signs at the campground that I could find, but I knew that I needed to head upriver along the North Fork of the Trinity River. As typical for me, my first two attempts were aborted as the trails quickly became game trails, then nothing. I finally decided to just head cross-country climbing higher up the ridge, confident that the higher I got, the more likely I would be to come across the trail or at least a more gentle slope to follow in a generally upriver direction. Eventually, I did connect with the maintained trail, and I was officially headed to Papoose Lake.

It was nearly dark by then, and my original plan of camping 4.7 miles down trail at the confluence with Rattlesnake Creek – how could anyone resist camping at a place with such an inviting name – was blown. I stopped at the first good campsite, a clearing a short distance off the trail just south of Backbone Creek. I pitched my tent and settled into my book for the trip “Alive: The Story of the Andes Survivors” about a Uruguayan rugby team’s survival of a plane crash in the Andes. I also enjoyed my dinner of stale dehydrated hummus and pita bread with a 32 ounce “crowler” of Hexegenia IPA to wash it down. As night began to descend, a solitary doe came by camp. I looked away for just a second, but when I looked up again she had disappeared back into the forest.

The next morning dawned clear. The clouds that had robbed me of my celestial light show had not brought any rain and were now gone. I lazed around camp slowly drinking my vanilla protein shake, packing camp, and reading some more. I was not anxious to get going, and I had no reason to be. I knew that it was only 12 miles to Papoose Lake, and I would be able to knock that out in 5 hours, right?

Soon after leaving camp, the trail split between a low water route and a standard (?) route. I chose the high route, climbing up the hill to descend again near Rattlesnake Creek. I had read that the low water route would involve several river crossings, and based on the flows that I was seeing in the North Fork of the Trinity River, that would not be a good idea. There were some beautiful white and pink flowers along the trail that resembled small lilies. The flowers competed for my attention with the trail itself and the views down the hillside to the river, oh, and of course some poison oak…that I ended up walking through. Luckily, I avoided any rash or itching from my encounter with the poison oak.
Flowers along the North Fork of the Trinity.jpg
The next fork in the trail offered me the opportunity to let Rattlesnake Creek be my guide in my travels to Papoose Lake, and I accepted the offer as I had told my wife and the US Forest Service I would. Rattlesnake Creek was never very far from the trail, but frequently out of site, hiding behind large piles of stones, garrison walls left behind from a hundred or more years ago by the placer miners who once worked these hills for gold. I arrived at the first ford of Rattlesnake Creek around 11:30 and decided this would be a good place and time to take a lunch break before climbing up the canyon to the lake filled cirque that was my ultimate destination for the day. I was now approximately 7 miles from my destination for the night and planned to arrive at Papoose Lake by 3:30, at the latest.
Looking up the canyon from Rattlesnake Creek.jpg
Looking West down Rattlesnake Canyon.jpg
After lunch and a creek crossing I began to climb up and away from the creek, rock hopping across one tributary then wading across the Middle Fork of Rattlesnake Creek, as my feet were wet already and I knew there would be at least one more ford of the creek further up anyway. I came to the Bob’s Farm Trail Junction less than one hour after crossing Rattlesnake Creek and saw that the USFS was telling me it was only 4 more miles to Papoose Lake (1.5 miles to Bob’s Farm if I chose to turn left instead of continuing on). Some helpful hiker had added a “+” sign to the 4. It was nearly two hours of hiking up a sometimes brushed over trail until I reached Enos Camp, just past the half way point between Bob’s Farm Trail and Papoose Lake, “4+” miles indeed.
Bear Valley Meadows 2.jpg
Mount Hilton.jpg
This is where the trail ended, if not on the map, at least on the ground. Fortunately there were cairns to lead me; little, mythical rock creatures who exist to lead weary travelers through trailless and sometimes dangerous forests, fields, and rock walls. Shortly after Enos Camp I broke out of the forest and was greeted by a view of the white snow clad ridges and peaks at the head of the valley that I had been hiking up for the past nearly three hours. I also could see a black volcanic rock head wall and the canyon that the creek had cut through it. I didn’t know how, but I knew there was a way up that wall. And, the cairns would lead me.
Sedum Etc..jpg
Sedum 2.jpg
Over rock and through low brush, I followed the cairns, stopping every few minutes to take in the view back down the valley and the closer views of Sedum, Indian Paint Brush, and other flowers sprouting from among the rocks around me. Over the last mile of trail, I would ascend 1,200 feet and criss-cross my way up two head walls as I followed the cairns to Papoose Lake. The cairns led me well and true as there was only one short section where a slip or loss of balance would have meant a very short slide to a sheer drop over 100 feet down to the rock strewn raging creek below. As the terrain leveled out and the trail opened up, I could hear the voices of men and the sound of a hatchet against wood. I reached the top of the rocky rise and Papoose Lake lay before me as did a campsite, occupied by three men and their tents, at the lake outlet. They informed me that I had found a hidden gem in the Trinities and offered to loan me a fishing rod. I declined to take the rod, but did accept their advice that a nice campsite lay on the eastern side of the lake just over the mound of rock to my right.
Papoose Lake.jpg
Papoose Lake 2.jpg
The lake was beautiful as was the campsite, nestled in a stand of conifers alongside a stream of snow melt that fed the lake. I made camp in the shade of the trees and then made my way down to the lake to wash up. After removing my clothes, I tentatively took my first few steps into the cold lake. I then took a few more steps until I was waist deep at which point I rinsed my hiking clothes and tossed them back onto the rocky shore before walking further out, up to my chest. I quickly rinsed myself off and walked back out of the water, numb from the tips of my toes to my shoulders, way too cold to even consider swimming. I dried myself off and slipped on some fresh underwear and not so fresh shoes for the walk back to camp where I had a line waiting for my wet clothes to hang on. I got dressed in my set of clean dry clothes and got out the tabbouleh that I had started rehydrating at lunch. With a squeeze of fresh lime juice, it was most excellent, especially as I watched the shadows creep across the lake, the fish beginning to feed, and the mountain tops glowing from the last rays of sunshine.
Sunset at Papoose Lake.jpg
The only thing that was missing was warmth. I was still chilled to the bone from my 5 minute dip in the lake. I had tried dry shorts, t-shirt, and socks, but that was not nearly enough. Next, I added my light puffy down jacket, nope, still shivering. That was followed by my base layer…over my shorts and shirt. Still cold. Finally, I decided to crawl into my tent and curl up with my book under my down quilt. It was then that I started to warm up, as the sky darkened and the mountains became white hulks soon to only be visible by the lack of stars where they stood.
Wedding Cake at Sunrise.jpg
Based on the hike in, I knew how much time I would need for the hike out and planned to be packed and on the trail by 8:00. I came close. But, it had been a cold night, and I really needed some nice hot coffee to help get me going. By 8:15 I was headed back to my car at Hobo Gulch trailhead. On the way, I lost the route a few times through the brush below the bluffs, but I eventually made it to Enos Camp and the trail, overgrown but still easy to navigate – pushing your way through lilacs isn’t exactly hell.

I stopped at the lowest crossing of Rattlesnake Creek again and finished off the tabbouleh while I read another chapter in the book and filtered some water. While stopped there, I met a trio of hikers who told me they were headed to Papoose Lake. I let them know that despite what the USFS topo maps indicate, it was not a trail all the way there, but the cairns are easy to follow. They looked a little worried but still willing to go for it. They didn’t have the lightest looking packs, and two of them stopped to change out of boots and into sandals for the creek crossing (the third had trail runners and just waded across like I had done). It was already after noon, and given the amount of time they spent in this first of several creek crossings, I hoped they made it to Papoose Lake, but I have my doubts. More importantly, I hope they enjoyed their weekend. There were several places to stop and camp before Papoose Lake, Enos Camp being the closest to Papoose Lake, that would have left them with an easy hike to the lake the next morning. Better to have fun than to kill yourself to keep to a schedule (a lesson I know well, but have a hard time following when actually on the trail).

When I got back to my car at the campground, there were now four groups of people camped. It had really filled up for the weekend, lol. I began the long drive back to paved roads doing my best to avoid pot holes, ruts, and large rocks, but as I turned onto the paved East Fork Road, I heard a strange noise coming from the front passenger corner of the vehicle. Strange became bad as I pulled over and saw what was wrong. My tire was completely flat and a little worse for wear. Evidently, I didn’t do a good job of avoiding the hazards on the dirt road. I put on my slightly inflated spare (hey, who checks the air pressure in their spare?), and set off for Weaverville at a slow pace, not exceeding 40 mph. I was able to pump up the spare in Weaverville and increase my max speed to 55 mph for the last 45 miles back home. I got a new tire the next day under warrantee and was left with only good memories from my hike to Papoose Lake.
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tarbuckle
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Re: Papoose Lake Trip Report (Long Winded As Usual)

Post by tarbuckle »

Nice write up on the Papoose trip. Did you know the trailhead is above the campground? I went up one time with out checking the forecast. Spent a long wet night at Enos. With it still raining in the morning, I aborted my plans to reach the lake. Over night, Rattlesnake creek became a muddy raging torrent. Scary crossing. Rained all the way to the trailhead.
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Troutdog 59
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Re: Papoose Lake Trip Report (Long Winded As Usual)

Post by Troutdog 59 »

Thank you for a wonderful write up of a lake I have long wished to visit. Mike Hayden and his wife Mary wrote an article about hiking to this lake in the 60's and it sounds like the trail hasn't changed much. You're report has moved this destination up on my list of trips to do. Thanks again for a wonderful trip report.
Once in a while you can get shown the light
In the strangest places if you look at it right.

The Grateful Dead
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Lumbergh21
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Re: Papoose Lake Trip Report (Long Winded As Usual)

Post by Lumbergh21 »

tarbuckle wrote:Nice write up on the Papoose trip. Did you know the trailhead is above the campground? I went up one time with out checking the forecast. Spent a long wet night at Enos. With it still raining in the morning, I aborted my plans to reach the lake. Over night, Rattlesnake creek became a muddy raging torrent. Scary crossing. Rained all the way to the trailhead.
Just above as I remember. The only place I truly lost the trail was coming back actually, along the dry stream bed next Rattlesnake Creek. The path that seemed so obvious with an unnecessary amount of cairns became difficult for me to find on the way back for some reason. Even with the fairly low flow in the creek when I was there, it was relatively powerful. I was glad it was only up to my knees.
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Lumbergh21
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Re: Papoose Lake Trip Report (Long Winded As Usual)

Post by Lumbergh21 »

Troutdog 59 wrote:Thank you for a wonderful write up of a lake I have long wished to visit. Mike Hayden and his wife Mary wrote an article about hiking to this lake in the 60's and it sounds like the trail hasn't changed much. You're report has moved this destination up on my list of trips to do. Thanks again for a wonderful trip report.
I would have liked to have included a pic of the vicious lilacs choking the trail near Enos Camp :wink: but unfortunately, I lost almost all of my photos on my phone. It was definitely an enjoyable hike albeit with a long drive due to the 18 miles or so of dirt road after over an hour of driving from Redding on paved roads.
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