The best route up the headwall is to ascend the gray-colored dirt up the center then, near the top, contour to the right on steep slopes to join the saddle. Avoid starting up the left side (in the tan dirt), as the ascent is not viable, becoming very steep and loose, and it is very difficult to traverse to the right from there. WARNING: the wall is concave in shape, so gets steeper with elevation. This is not apparent from below, so the tan dirt can seem to be superior. Do not fall into this trap!
I fell into the trap and found it a bit rough finding anything that would hold near the top on the left side in that tan dirt. I guess it's viable because I made it, but it wasn't fun for a while. Duane went to the far right and hit some really loose dangerous stuff too. I don't think I'd want to go up that headwall right behind someone. On the way down we went down the chutes in the grey-colored dirt and were able to partially ski/slide down without a hitch - much easier than the route up.
Here are some pictures I took: