High Sierra Topix

Finger Col

GENERAL OVERVIEW: Crosses White Divide. Connects Blackcap Basin at Cathedral Lake with a basin of unnamed lakes above and west from Goddard Creek.

CLASS/DIFFICULTY: Class 2.

LOCATION: Border of John Muir Wilderness in Sierra National Forest and Kings Canyon National Park. HST Map.

ELEVATION: 11,560+ ft.

USGS TOPO MAP (7.5'): Mt Goddard.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION: I crossed this pass on 2012-09-13, a low snow year. I didn't take direct route because I wanted to visit Blue Canyon Pass. From the lakes below the pass on the east side I climbed straight to Blue Canyon Pass, traversed 1/3rd of the way towards Finger Col, went down to the creek below the pass (col), and climbed to the small lake below the pass. One could easily climb to this lake directly from the lakes below. Then I angled left on a gentle slope towards a steep wall and then under the wall to the pass. I descended the pass on west side going left (WSW), not directly to Cathedral Lake, hoping to avoid some talus. Then I aimed at a small ridge topped with a line of trees near the lake inlet flowing from the pass and followed the ridge and somewhat below it to the inlet. The indirect descent route that I took didn't seem to have less talus then the direct way down.

The pass has a prominent vertical rock pillar "finger" clearly seen from the west.

See a mention of a guidebook that describes traverse between Blue Canyon Pass and Finger Col.

PHOTOS:

Click on images to see larger versions.

Looking up to the pass, from the east. Zoom in. The pass is in the notch slightly to the right. Looking from traverse from Blue Canyon Pass. Zoom in. Looking from the small lake directly below the pass (eastern side). Getting close. Looking back east. The first view of west side shows verticall wall. A view of western side. The finger, and view of west side in background.

More photos:

Looking fom west. Looking from inlet to Cathedral Lake. Distant view from west. The pass is where the finger is clearly visible in the middle.

Another view from the west. Circa 1989

I just did this pass from Cathedral headed East towards Goddard Creek a few days ago.

The ledge system to exit towards the lakes below Finger Peak fe;t easy enough to follow from that direction.

I'll note that headed that direction, about 20-30 feet from the notch/pass you can climb up about five-six feet on a big boulder and then drop onto the ledge, rather than having to do a rather awkward 'sidle around' move across the side of that boulder that is a little more exposed and feels quite Class 3.

Here's my attempt to point out the ledge system and its access point if you're heading West.

I did this from Cathedral into Goddard Creek. The lower bit is inconsequential CYOA - we kept to the south along the edge of the slabby cliff band below the pass once we got to it. Steep slab and grassy ramps for the most part, which took us to the sandy talus field up top which was simple navigation. There's some grassy ramps going up the middle of the slabs that might work, and the north side looked a little gentler, but at the time was slick with seep (so I'd imagine that's a fairly constant thing given this year!).

One thing to note, this is technically a class 2-3 pass. On the west side there's a boulder jammed near the top of the chute that is a simple move or two of class 3 to get up, and I think another spot like that. If I wasn't thinking of Valor Pass where people mentioned not noticing class 3 if it was simple I probably wouldn't have noticed (and honestly if you're comfortable getting to that point it shouldn't phase you) but it's worth mentioning.




Micheal's ledge is the canonical route on the east side - it's what Secor mentions and knocks a class or two off of anything else I saw there. Once off of it drop down to the slabs as you see fit, whichever slabs you want, or drop through the talus if that's your thing. We dropped S to the slabs over there but you can stay more directly E if you're more ambitious.