High Sierra Topix

KAWEAH PASS


GENERAL OVERVIEW: Access between Kaweah Basin and High Sierra Trail/Chagoopa
Plateau


CLASS/DIFFICULTY: Class 2


LOCATION: Sequoia NP. HST Map


ELEVATION: 12,320ft


USGS TOPO MAP (7.5'): Mt Kaweah, CA


ROUTE DESCRIPTION: From approx the 10500ft level on the HST directly south
of Mt. Kaweah start a traverse eastward towards Chagoopa Creek, which you follow
to a small lake at 11745ft. Continue to Lake 12335ft which is saddled in the pass.
This section is class 1-2, but the northern side is a steep class 2 with a lot of loose
rock. Best to do KP when there is coverage on the northern side making it less
dangerous.

PHOTOS: Courtesy of Cgundersen

View up from the southern side:


View up from the northern side:


View looking up northern side from half way up to pass:


View looking down on northern side:

A Couple more pics of the North Side in September after two consecutive low snow winters
Looks mighty loose to me

Dave

ROUTE DESCRIPTION: If approaching the North side from Kaweah Basin you will first need to get past a small cliff band lower down. Some decent options exist further to the left. Once on this make a diagonal traverse towards the low part of the pass until you reach a run out of medium sized talus. This is one of the first areas you will need to stay sharp as although there is a great deal of solid rock in this pile there also is plenty of dangerously loose talus. Continue up this for as long as you can and make the final traverse directly up the loose scree.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION: This route is for knowledge purposes only. I discourage anyone from using this route!

When climbing the medium sized talus slope as noted above it will end at a class 3 wall. I decided to take this route thinking it might be a good way to avoid having to climb the scree. Ascend this wall which is covered in loose rocks and sand on which ever route you find possible as it's nearly vertical. Once up this section you can begin angling up towards the pass where you will need to climb around a large chute run out. Once nearly on the other side you will have to climb up a miserable mess of small scree and dirt where footing is almost impossible. Once up this final section you will find yourself a bit higher than the pass on it's East side. The traverse to the pass itself from here is EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS! There are very large piles of rocks on steep slope edges that are very loose. I had an entire section break loose on me and a boulder as large as me nearly ran me down and took me over the edge. The rock situation there was so bad I put all my faith in one large boulder. If it had gone I would have been killed. So over all I recommend you stay away from this area and deal with the primary chute.