Alternative HST "Cross-country Pass/Route" Rating System
Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:56 pm
Fellow Members,
After hearing fellow members and backpacking friends voice their
displeasure with the current ratings of many cross-country passes
in the Sierra, would like to introduce a version of the current system
that is geared more towards the backpacker community.
The current Secor ratings, primarily for climbers, do not address the
needs of a backpacker adequately enough, they require a fine tuning so
it gives one a better understanding of the dangerous terrain will be
encountered on ones cross-country route.
We need to clarify that these ratings are intended for backpackers
with packs, during the mid-high season, from June to Sept, and not
the shoulder seasons, where snow and ice may make routes, and
passes more difficult.
Variables such a persons height, reach, weight (with pack), physical
conditioning, and experience, are not taken into consideration, since
this would make the rating system much to complex, and to variable
to be effective.
With all passes, the most important common factor influencing the
levels of difficulty, is the steepness of the slope.
Anything below the 50 degree level with one of the following hazards
listed below, will fall into the class 2 category, and anything above 50
degrees, into the class 3 category.
Hazards include: stable/loose scree, stable/loose talus, stable/loose
boulders, loose sand w/minimal or no handholds, snow, ice, difficult
route finding (negotiating cliffs), or any other hazard that may be
associated with a particular section of a pass.
It is important that you stay as close as possible to the so-called
"official route" when going over a pass, if you decide to deviate from
the official route, you must list it as a variation, and not the standard
route, for example: Dumbbell Pass Variation I.
These ratings need to be excepted as the standard, and backpackers
should base the passes/routes difficultly on this rating system, and
not their own experience, or feelings about it, since everyone's
experience levels, and comfort levels, on a particular terrain is going
to be vastly different.
Keep in mind when classifying a route/pass, you need to base the
whole route/pass on the most difficult section, not the route/pass
as whole. For example if there is a very short B/C3-1 section in a long
route, which you would have otherwise classified as B/C2-1 or B/C2-2,
you should go with the higher rating of B/C3-1 for safety reasons.
Here are the ratings:
B/C2-1: (Backpackers/Class 2, Level 1) passes under 50 degrees, with
stable scree, talus, or boulders
B/C2-2: (Backpackers/Class 2, Level 2) passes under 50 degrees, with
loose scree, talus, or boulders
B/C3-1: (Backpackers/Class 3, Level 1) passes over 50 degrees, with
stable scree/talus/sand w/ handholds, large boulders, scrambling over
rock and talus where handholds and footholds are used for balance/
upward, or downward movement. Some exposure may also be involved
on some routed
B/C3-2: (Backpackers/Class 3, Level 2) passes over 50 degrees, with
loose scree/talus/sand w/minimal or no handholds, large loose
boulders or very large boulders requiring scrambling using handholds
and footholds. Some exposure may also involved on some routes.
M/C4: (Mountaineer/Class 4) at this level of steepness and exposure, the
usage of various climbing techniques and equipment are appropriate for
ones safety, these routes should would mainly be used by experienced
mountaineers.
For comparison have added some of Secor’s rating descriptions below:
Class 2 is defined here as difficult cross-country travel. In the High
Sierra this is usually talus hopping, which requires the occasional
use of hands for balance. Talus can be unstable.
Class 3 is where the climbing begins. Hands and feet are used not
just for balance, but to hang on to the rock. Class 3 is more common
on steep faces or along ridges and arêtes. Holds are large and easy to
locate.
Class 4 is on steep rock with smaller holds and a lot of exposure.
As with all extreme outdoor activities, no ratings can substitute
proper judgment calls based on common sense. You should have
an awareness, understanding, of the difficulties, and dangerous
that you take on while pursuing any extreme outdoor activity.
My hope is, that you will us this new updated rating system, and
that it will make everyone's cross-country travel a little safer.
Please, enjoy and use.
After hearing fellow members and backpacking friends voice their
displeasure with the current ratings of many cross-country passes
in the Sierra, would like to introduce a version of the current system
that is geared more towards the backpacker community.
The current Secor ratings, primarily for climbers, do not address the
needs of a backpacker adequately enough, they require a fine tuning so
it gives one a better understanding of the dangerous terrain will be
encountered on ones cross-country route.
We need to clarify that these ratings are intended for backpackers
with packs, during the mid-high season, from June to Sept, and not
the shoulder seasons, where snow and ice may make routes, and
passes more difficult.
Variables such a persons height, reach, weight (with pack), physical
conditioning, and experience, are not taken into consideration, since
this would make the rating system much to complex, and to variable
to be effective.
With all passes, the most important common factor influencing the
levels of difficulty, is the steepness of the slope.
Anything below the 50 degree level with one of the following hazards
listed below, will fall into the class 2 category, and anything above 50
degrees, into the class 3 category.
Hazards include: stable/loose scree, stable/loose talus, stable/loose
boulders, loose sand w/minimal or no handholds, snow, ice, difficult
route finding (negotiating cliffs), or any other hazard that may be
associated with a particular section of a pass.
It is important that you stay as close as possible to the so-called
"official route" when going over a pass, if you decide to deviate from
the official route, you must list it as a variation, and not the standard
route, for example: Dumbbell Pass Variation I.
These ratings need to be excepted as the standard, and backpackers
should base the passes/routes difficultly on this rating system, and
not their own experience, or feelings about it, since everyone's
experience levels, and comfort levels, on a particular terrain is going
to be vastly different.
Keep in mind when classifying a route/pass, you need to base the
whole route/pass on the most difficult section, not the route/pass
as whole. For example if there is a very short B/C3-1 section in a long
route, which you would have otherwise classified as B/C2-1 or B/C2-2,
you should go with the higher rating of B/C3-1 for safety reasons.
Here are the ratings:
B/C2-1: (Backpackers/Class 2, Level 1) passes under 50 degrees, with
stable scree, talus, or boulders
B/C2-2: (Backpackers/Class 2, Level 2) passes under 50 degrees, with
loose scree, talus, or boulders
B/C3-1: (Backpackers/Class 3, Level 1) passes over 50 degrees, with
stable scree/talus/sand w/ handholds, large boulders, scrambling over
rock and talus where handholds and footholds are used for balance/
upward, or downward movement. Some exposure may also be involved
on some routed
B/C3-2: (Backpackers/Class 3, Level 2) passes over 50 degrees, with
loose scree/talus/sand w/minimal or no handholds, large loose
boulders or very large boulders requiring scrambling using handholds
and footholds. Some exposure may also involved on some routes.
M/C4: (Mountaineer/Class 4) at this level of steepness and exposure, the
usage of various climbing techniques and equipment are appropriate for
ones safety, these routes should would mainly be used by experienced
mountaineers.
For comparison have added some of Secor’s rating descriptions below:
Class 2 is defined here as difficult cross-country travel. In the High
Sierra this is usually talus hopping, which requires the occasional
use of hands for balance. Talus can be unstable.
Class 3 is where the climbing begins. Hands and feet are used not
just for balance, but to hang on to the rock. Class 3 is more common
on steep faces or along ridges and arêtes. Holds are large and easy to
locate.
Class 4 is on steep rock with smaller holds and a lot of exposure.
As with all extreme outdoor activities, no ratings can substitute
proper judgment calls based on common sense. You should have
an awareness, understanding, of the difficulties, and dangerous
that you take on while pursuing any extreme outdoor activity.
My hope is, that you will us this new updated rating system, and
that it will make everyone's cross-country travel a little safer.
Please, enjoy and use.