Altitude Sickness, Part 2

How do you prepare for the rigorous physical requirements of high elevation adventure? Strength and endurance are key, but are only part of a more complex equation. How do you prepare for changes in altitude, exposure, diet, etc.? How do you mentally prepare? Learn from others and share what you know about training in advance for outdoor adventures.
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gregw822
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Altitude Sickness, Part 2

Post by gregw822 »

Altitude Sickness, Part 2
Climbing Higher

As we climb higher in altitude, there is a corresponding decrease in atmospheric pressure. Pressure arises from never-ending collisions of the molecules that make up the atmosphere, mostly N2 and O2. Thus, a decrease in atmospheric pressure results from a smaller number of molecules per unit volume of air. A lungful of air at 10,000’ has about 70% as many molecules as a lungful at sea level. We get fewer oxygen molecules per breath as we move higher in elevation. We compensate for the loss of oxygen by breathing faster, for both inhalation and exhalation, and at modest altitudes, it is the excess exhalation that starts the process of altitude sickness.

Refer back to the blood equilibrium equation from Part 1:
H2O + CO2 ⇄ H2CO3 ⇄ H3O+ + HCO3
Remember that this reaction never stops. It runs in both directions at the same time and at the same rate, so that the concentrations of the five chemical species remain in a stable state of equilibrium. It is a natural phenomenon of chemical reactions, that if you add one of the molecules of the reaction to the mix, the whole thing shifts away from the added molecule until the system regains its stable equilibrium. Likewise, if any of the molecules is removed from the reaction, the whole thing shifts toward the removed molecules until the system regains its stable equilibrium. We breathe in faster to collect all the oxygen molecules we need, but at the same time, we also breathe out faster, and this causes excess loss of carbon dioxide. In a sense, fast breathing "sweeps" carbon dioxide out of the body.

Notice how this works with the equilibrium reaction. As we remove carbon dioxide by rapid breathing, the reaction shifts to the left, trying to regain the stable state of equilibrium. As a consequence of the shift, the amounts of H2CO3, H3O+, HCO3 all decrease proportionally. The critical part of this is that the system is losing its acidic molecules. This causes a rise in the pH of the blood. (The pH scale is actually a logarithmic function of the concentration of H3O+.) Blood will not tolerate pH values much higher than 7.40 before alkalosis sets in. The condition of diminished carbon dioxide in the blood is known as hypocapnia. The body enters a state of alkalosis, initiating altitude sickness

There are three types of altitude sickness. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). AMS is a mild condition, common among hikers above 10,000', and sometimes as low as 8,000'. The symptoms are familiar to all of us: Headache, fatigue, loss of apatite and poor sleep. I have noticed an additional symptom, probably more associated with being hypoxic rather than in a condition of AMS. I camped in Granite Park one evening, and after stopping for the day, I was actually giddy. I felt like I'd had several drinks. This lasted for an hour or so before the headache set in, leading to a poor night of sleep. That was the only time I've experienced the feeling. I think of myself as being not particularly susceptible to altitude sickness, but that's not true. Although I usually don't get headaches if I stay under 13,000', I generally sleep poorly the first night of a trip, sometimes the first two nights, and my apatite is definitely suppressed the first few days. I noticed doing the JMT that I slept very well after the first few days, and there was no missing apatite whatsoever during the second half of the trip.

I want to limit these pieces to smaller bites of information, so I'll stop here for now. I can see two more parts coming. Part 3 will cover HAPE and HACE (briefly, since I'm not a physiologist) and also a bit about acclimatization (erythropoietin and hemoglobin). Part 4 will finally get to Diamox, aka acetazolamide.
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Harlen
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Re: Altitude Sickness, Part 2

Post by Harlen »

Peru95 (8).jpg
This is the look of a climber suffering from HAPE. I was weak as a kitten, and resigned to my fate, though fighting like hell to stay upright and awake. I had labored, bubbly breathing ("rales"), a hacking cough, and was spitting up bloody sputum. I had broken more than a few high altitude rules on this trip to southern Peru. The desired mountain is the one seen behind me- Nevado Ampato, which is over 20,600.' My brother and I never got nearer to it that this. I couldn't walk 50 feet uphill, and we needed to go back up about 1500' over the pass we had crossed on the way to the base. Somewhat miraculously (thanks to a lost cow, an old woman and a horse), it all worked out in the end.

Just making the point that altitude awareness can be critically important. Greg is a great teacher of the finer points, but in addition, a couple of short, practical points are 1. Don't ascend more than 1000 feet per day after reaching 10,000' elvevation (conservative approach) or 11,500' (less-conservative). 2. If your AMS begins to get serious, there are 3 things you must do-- descend, descend, descend. Oh yes, stay hydrated. Drink 3-4 quarts per day, and not just brandy. :nod:
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Re: Altitude Sickness, Part 2

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I was on a trek going up Kilimanjaro, and we were taking the Western Breach route. After several days on the trail, I pulled in to camp at 16,000 feet, which is the bottom of the Arrow Glacier. One member of the trek wasn't doing too good. Part of that was because that trip was the first time in her life that she had ever slept outside in a tent, but I digress...

This one gal dragged into camp about two hours after everybody else and then immediately collapsed in her tent. Later, her tentmate came over and got me for help to do a quick health check on that gal. I saw that her pulse was over 120, which seemed rough since she had already been resting for a couple of hours. The rule of thumb is that their pulse should be no higher than 110 after they've rested for an hour.

Her respiration was quick. When I saw the pulse rate, I got her tentmate and told her the news. I thought that she had the beginning symptoms of altitude illness. The tentmate wanted a second opinion, so she got the next person, who was an orthopedic surgeon. He checked her the same way and said that her symptoms resembled altitude illness. The tentmate wanted a third opinion, so she got the next person, who was a psychiatrist. He reported that she had some kind of respiratory problem like altitude illness. The tentmate wanted a fourth opinion, so the African trek leader checked her and said that he agreed with the first three. So, then they had to get her evacuated immediately while she was still able to move by her own power. Along with one guide and one porter, she was evacuated 1000 feet down that same day, and then 2000 feet down the following day. The rule of thumb is that if you can take them down 3000 feet, you've probably saved their life.

The rest of the trek group met up with her again on the day after that, down at 10,000 feet, and she was fine. Immediate evacuation may have been the key.
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Harlen
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Re: Altitude Sickness, Part 2

Post by Harlen »

Good call on the mountain bobby49. I think that the psychiatrist should have examined the tentmate!
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Re: Altitude Sickness, Part 2

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The tentmate was just concerned about the patient. It was sort of a trip of a lifetime for both of them, and she did not want to see the patient bail out unnecessarily. But then when all of the diagnostic opinions were in, everybody had to leap into action and get the patient moving downhill. They actually rounded up one guide and one porter with all of the gear necessary, and they had her moving down within one hour. That was good. If everybody had waited until the next morning, it is possible that the patient wouldn't be able to move. Up there, you cannot get a helicopter rescue.

I felt good about it, because I had been studying up on altitude illness in the month before I left for Africa. Plus, I was carrying Diamox, just in case I had to use it. Interestingly, we got up to the crater camp at 18,800 feet to spend a night, and some of the porters were getting very sick from altitude. They don't carry water bottles, so they were likely dehydrated. The head guide came over to me and asked me if I had any Diamox. He wanted to give some to his sickest porters. I explained that it was bad to take Diamox without plenty of drinking water, but he wouldn't listen. So, I told him that I would not give any to them, but that I would leave 50% of my Diamox pills out, and if he chose to give those to his porters, then it would be his responsibility, not mine. Everybody managed to summit and then head down successfully.
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Harlen
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Re: Altitude Sickness, Part 2

Post by Harlen »

bobby49:
One member of the trek wasn't doing too good. ...

This one gal dragged into camp about two hours after everybody else and then immediately collapsed in her tent. Later, her tentmate came over and got me for help to do a quick health check on that gal.
I'm curious about one other point, peripherally related to altitude sickness. I would think that on a guided trip like that, having reached 16,000 feet, there would have been a "sweeper," bringing up the rear, making sure that everyone was on track, and doing well physically. I'll bet your Sierra Club trips were organized like that Bobby. When you write that she came into camp two hours after everybody else, perhaps you meant after the other climbers?

I'm curious because I've heard mixed opinions about the guided trips in Kenya... as in: "They used to be fantastic, and now are sometimes less so." When were you there Bobby?
I hope I haven't digressed. In the interest of keeping this on the Altitude Sickness track, I'll mention that another important point of practical importance at high altitude is the safety of traveling with partners. Where many of us prefer, or at least can enjoy solo mountain travels, at higher elevation I wouldn't chance it. This is especially true for people who know they are prone to altitude sickness. Part of ones safety is to guage each other's condition, and to be able to notice the signs of AMS, or worse, and then know what to do.
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Re: Altitude Sickness, Part 2

Post by Jason »

Thanks for part two!
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Re: Altitude Sickness, Part 2

Post by bobby49 »

I led Sierra Club trips from 1978 to 1998. For beginner trips, we would always have a rear leader. For advanced trips, not so much.

The Kilimanjaro trek was in 2000. You would expect that somebody signing up for a trip at that kind of elevation would have some good outdoor skills. In the case of that one gal, not so much. These two women hiked together, so it was not like somebody had been completely abandoned on the trail. The one gal came into camp on her own, but somebody kept her distantly in sight the whole time. I remember that day well, and it was snowing. I had been milling around in camp for too long, and I was beginning to get cold. The situation of diagnosing some altitude sickness gave me something constructive to do. Ultimately, I hope that the trek leader learned something from it.

Actually, I found Kilimanjaro to be the easiest big peak that I've ever done. Everybody who developed any altitude problem had recovered once they descended some.
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Re: Altitude Sickness, Part 2

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Harlen wrote: Sat Apr 10, 2021 8:53 pm Just making the point that altitude awareness can be critically important. Greg is a great teacher of the finer points, but in addition, a couple of short, practical points are 1. Don't ascend more than 1000 feet per day after reaching 10,000' elvevation (conservative approach) or 11,500' (less-conservative). 2. If your AMS begins to get serious, there are 3 things you must do-- descend, descend, descend. Oh yes, stay hydrated. Drink 3-4 quarts per day, and not just brandy. :nod:
I don't know that I've ever obeyed Rule 1 when hiking in the Sierra. I don't see how it is even possible for the trips that I plan based on resupply and time available. I live at 600 feet elevation and typically reach 10,000 feet by day 2 if not day 1. I've done day hikes of Whitney and Shasta (x3 to at least 12,000' after waking up at 600') and at least a dozen hikes of Lassen Peak, which I believe is 11,300. I did have some problems with a headache my first time up Shasta, but drinking more water seems to be the cure. I mean is Rule 1 really a rule for everyone? And what is the immutable truth that makes it a rule? (serious questions)
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Re: Altitude Sickness, Part 2

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Harlen said 10,000 feet is "conservative", by which I interpret the altitude that the average person starts to feel impacts. I think every one of us who have been to altitude have figured out our own "conservative" number. For me it is about 10,500-11,000. I am OK up there the first night as long as I take it VERY slowly and chug a few Advil. I think the 1000 feet per day thereafter refers to where you camp, not climbing a peak and coming back to camp.
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