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Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

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Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

Postby Wandering Daisy » Sun May 04, 2014 5:42 pm

I have a Cannon 95S and will admit that I have been using the automatic setting for the last few years. I want to learn how to use more than the automatic setting. My problem is that, in bright outdoor conditions, and my poor eyesight, I cannot see all the tiny symbols on the screen while trying to program. I may have to bring special reading glasses with lots of magnification. And I cannot walk with reading glasses so I would have to hang them from my neck. Seems quite awkward, not to mention the glare on the screen. Any suggestions? Maybe when I get used to the settings I can do them without fully seeing the symbols.

Do you have to set each photo? When you turn the camera off and then on, do the settings (Program mode) stay the same? Is there a reset button - once I play with the menu I get it really messed up! Those of you who use these functions, how often do you change them - each photo? Or do you just program one setting that you use the most? Should I take a page or two from the instruction manual with me? I am a bit overwhelmed right now. Is there a short list of the most useful program functions for photos in the Sierra?



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Re: Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

Postby RoguePhotonic » Sun May 04, 2014 6:38 pm

Most of the time during the day you can just set your iso and aperture to something fixed and then you adjust the shutter speed with each photo. If you cannot see the screen well then that could be a problem. You could also use an Aperture priority setting where it will only do auto for shutter. After some shots you can figure out if you want a balance of a bit darker or not. Once you figure out the best compensation such as one notch or two darker you can use it like an auto camera yet with far greater results than using auto itself.
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Re: Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

Postby maverick » Sun May 04, 2014 9:29 pm

For your screen get one of these: http://www.hoodmanusa.com/products.asp?dept=1017
HST= Wilderness Adventurer who knows no bounds, except for their own imagination.

Have a safer backcountry experience by using the HST ReConn Form 2.0, named after Larry Conn, a HST member: http://reconn.org
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Re: Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

Postby oldranger » Mon May 05, 2014 8:38 am

Daisy

I have been using an S90 for several years and find the P setting is most convenient for me as it is really simple to adjust the ISO. I generally have it set for about 125 but will increase in low light in order to increase the shutter speed so my shaky hands don't screw up the pic too much. In really bright conditions and for white water and snow I will decrease the ISO as low as it can go but I really need a neutral density filter to hold in front of the camera to optimize what I can do with the little camera. I generally have the camera set to underexpose by at least 1/3 F stop, in high contrast situations as much as 1 f stop. As Maverick suggests you may need to take several shots to make the adjustments you want. I find that using auto frequently makes the pics slightly washed out and that the P setting works best for me. In the evening and AM and under certain conditions during the day I will try the Sunset preset setting for some of my pics.

Also if you use polarized sunglasses you probably need to take them off to maximize what you can see on your screen.

Remember I am a total amateur so pay more attention to the pros!

Mike
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Re: Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

Postby Wandering Daisy » Mon May 05, 2014 11:01 am

I thought ISO was related to film speed (for film cameras). On automatic, all pictures have ISO of 80. What would be a good ISO for bright mountain scenes if I do not use a tripod? I looked back at my photos taken with automatic and most have F3-F4 or so and exposure times 1/640 to 1/1000 . Is this the reason they are not as sharp as I would like? I recall that on my film camera I tried to use F7 or F8.

Rogue and Old Ranger - thanks for the ideas - both seem like good approaches.

The shade hood looks good but wow! what a price! Maybe I will just try something home-made at first.
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Re: Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

Postby maverick » Mon May 05, 2014 12:22 pm

Two sites that will give you more info on your cameras technical stats:
http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Canon_PowerShot_S95/
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/PS95/PS95A.HTM
It was introduced 4 years go so there is a wealth of info on the web from people
who have asked similar questions over the years. Best thing you can do WD is
learn what your cameras strong suits are, and learn how to use them to your
advantage to take better landscape photos. Learn the differences, and the effects of
aperture, ISO, shutter speed, white balance, and creative mode settings have
on your pictures. Trial and error through practice, while at home or locally, will
allow you to get many more keepers when it counts in the back-country.
Read some of the articles from these or other site that explains the basics: http://digital-photography-school.com/ ; http://ronbigelow.com/articles/articles.htm

PS. In "C" mode, everything you have programmed into the camera is re-called when the
camera is waked back up, or when you return back to "C" mode from another mode.
HST= Wilderness Adventurer who knows no bounds, except for their own imagination.

Have a safer backcountry experience by using the HST ReConn Form 2.0, named after Larry Conn, a HST member: http://reconn.org
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Re: Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

Postby SSSdave » Tue May 06, 2014 9:07 am

Shows the S95 10mp camera has a manual exposure mode, manual focus, aperture priority, and shutter priority modes that is good and means it is a step up from the low end point and shoots. Looking at the specs, controls are likely similar in many respects to the 12mp Canon SX130 I own except for the sensor and short zoom range. I almost always use that in Aperture Priority mode instead of Auto. I'd been bringing that little camera along on backpacking trips to complement my view camera because my Canon G10 was overkill for the purpose of snap shots. I also have a tiny 12mp Nikon S3000 I just keep in by vehicle that has no manual modes so I use it in Auto by default for fast captures on the road or in the urban world.

Well most all of us need reading glasses after age 50. While out in the field I always have one those on a keeper around my neck. Yeah on just about every digital camera with LCDs made, even expensive DSLRs, reading whatever in sunny conditions can be difficult. That is a primary reason why more expensive models now have Live View viewfinders. The A6000 I just began using has one and I find it makes a huge difference. Not a fan of shade hood products for tiny point and shoots. I've made some viewing shades in the past but they tend to be a nuisance. For my digital closeups that on my website are only wildflowers, I've usually used a reflector to help shade the sun that allows enough to read LCDs. A better solution is to create a special detachable large black hood as part of a shirt or jacket that can be pull up over one's head with enough size to overlap a camera.

Take the whole manual with you or better put it on your smartphone or Kindle. The A6000 I have started using is rather complex much like my G10 was so take the whole manual along and often read it while taking breaks.

http://www.davidsenesac.com/Closeups/digi_closeups.html

All digital camera's have creative picture modes but it is better to manually set camera controls to reach the same settings because then you will learn something that works across all models. The primary digital camera mode a person weaning themselves from auto everything while using a camera outdoors ought to learn is the aperture priority mode because that controls depth of field. From there you will need to work on using the exposure bracketing, aperture, and ISO settings. The ISO setting can be kept on Auto ISO to start and later off that one would need to continually adjust it depending on circumstances. The most important skill is learning to control exposure via the bracketing function. A major problem with most digital sensors is of overexposure of highlights. Generally it is wisest to underexpose by from -0.3 to -0.7 for everything even if a histogram is available and otherwise shows scenes supposedly within range.
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Re: Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

Postby Wandering Daisy » Thu May 08, 2014 4:23 pm

Thank you all for the good ideas! I am doing a 3-4 day conditioning backpack in Yosemite next week and will try several of the methods suggested. I will take my reading glasses and camera instruction manual! In addition to photographing in the Valley, I will be going up the Merced River - one of my favorite route.
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Re: Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

Postby Wandering Daisy » Wed May 21, 2014 10:57 am

Comments on photography that are on my Yosemite trip report probably belong here.

I was able to fix the white balance on the RAW photos. (I am using Photoshop Elements 10). I also discovered how to lighten or darken each color for the JPEG photos. Both these really help. Not sure what to do with the RAW processed photo. How do you convert it to a file that can be viewed in Windows?

I think most of my problems with color are actually due to wrong exposure settings. (user error). The far distant swaths of evergreen trees always turn out mushy and dark (wiggle?). I think that the typical air pollution in Yosemite Valley makes crisp photos of down-valley distances difficult, but I may need to use a tripod.

Funny how I perceive the rock walls- I always remember them as light colored vivid Sierra granite, but every photo shows otherwise - darker, browner, a bit more somber. Not sure if it is my camera settings or simply the ability of the human eye and brain to make the scene look good regardless! The last day was very thinly overcast - always subdued sunlight - great for B&W but color is dull.

It is my age - I grew up with mechanical dials and a true view finder. I get really frustrated with electronic gadget controls. Finding what I want with a menu is difficult. I find what I want once, and the next time it eludes me.
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Re: Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

Postby Jimr » Thu May 22, 2014 9:41 pm

You should be able to export your raw file and adjustments into a .tif or .jpg file. For web and screen viewing, a jpg file is what you want. If you want to continue with adjustments, then a 16 bit tif file would be the format to export to, make further adjustments/enhancements, then export to a final jpg file for viewing.

Maverick pointed you to a good on-line school. Their forum is fantastic as well. Exposure is a huge subject and so many variables that it's hard not to write a book in a post. What you will find in their forums is a place to post your shot, give them exif information (camera settings used) and get helpful critique. Along with the many articles available, it is a good place to learn.
What?!
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Re: Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

Postby oldranger » Mon Jun 30, 2014 10:10 am

Daisy

Another trick I use, especially for sunset shots. Is to have the exposure based on center of the frame in the p mode then to point at the sky push the photo button part way then lower the camera angle to include the mountains. You don't get a lot of detail in the darker portions of the pic but then that is not why you are taking the pic.

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Re: Cannon 95S- more than autoumatic settings

Postby Wandering Daisy » Thu Jul 03, 2014 6:53 pm

Thanks OR. I know that trick and already use it often. The lighting (exposure??) is not the real problem. The automatic setting always comes in with a F4.0 or so focal length (is that the right term?). I think this causes some stuff to be out of focus. I remember when I used a 35mm film camera, I would usually set this at 5.6 or greater.
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