High Sierra Topix

Does anyone know if it's possible to climb the north face of university peak near onion valley and reach the summit without the class 3 traverse at the top? In other words, once I reach the point where the red line in the photo below turns a sharp right, can I avoid the exposure on the rest of the route by whimping out on the south side of the peak instead? Or is it just as exposed (or even worse)? Thanks in advance for any info!!



photo from summitpost.org

As far as I've heard or read, I don't think you can avoid class 3 going that way. However, it is possible to do an all class 2 route up the north side of University from Onion Valley further west, going up from Bench Lake. I don't have my topos and my own photos with me, but I believe (I will check this when I get home this evening and edit this post if necessary) the route (not listed in Secor or Roper) heads to the crest right of the edge of your photo, then works up the ridge (class 2) until you get to the final summit rise where talus gives way to low class 3 rock. At this point one can sidehill (class 2) around to easier (class 2) slopes on the west and south to surmount the summit area. In my opinion, this is hands down the most efficient class 2 dayhike route up University from Onion Valley. I worked out this route with my dad in 1976 after looking at it from the summit of Mt. Gould. I believe a detailed description of this route is given in my entry of corrections to Secor on the Climber.org site for University Peak.

I've gone over University Pass and also up the North Face of of University. I started too late on the trip over University Pass - I got over the pass, but didn't get to the summit of University. University Pass is a very steep loose route without snow and then there's the moraine at the bottom - it was tough getting up it and if there had been anyone behind me I would have been knocking rocks down on them all the way up. It would be better as a snow climb.

The north face was a better route. The class 3 section isn't difficult, but it was a long day getting up there. At first I thought I got on top, but I guess I didn't actually get on the highest bump because I didn't see the register. I fell in the icy snow and got a bit nervous when I went to go look for the register, so I headed back down without finding it.

I would definately recommend going up the north face versus going over University Pass.

University Pass:

http://community.webshots.com/album/186810930okzyvJ


North Face:

http://community.webshots.com/album/397283054sNhjgV

Actually, the 3rd class section is just before you take the sharp turn at the top. I don't remember exposure being too bad.

Thanks giantbrookie and wingding for the info!

Photo of University from last weekend:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/552 ... 7782uYOYLU

I did the route as outlined a few years ago...I don't remember any traverse being a problem...I do remember snow covered slabs 200 feet below the summit being a problem in tennis shoes. It's pretty straight forward climb....I d on't think there's any real fall potential at the top and I'm not aware of any major or minor accidents there either.

pcase;
I'll quote from Secor's 'The High Sierra'...."North Face. Class 3. ....climb a steep talus slope to the eastern end of a knife-edged ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit."
I think that most of us who have gone by Secor's ratings would probably agree that he doesn't tend to overestimate a route's classification; if anything, he might underestimate it. The term knife-edged, by it's very definition to my understanding, indicates steep drop-offs on either side. The fact that you did it in tennis shoes indicates to me that you are either a very good climber or fairly non-chalant about the risks. I think it would be instructive to describe your climbing experience and skill level so that your reply may be put into the proper context. Thanks in advance.

Trekker:
You are quoting Secor 1st Ed. However Secor 2nd Ed. omits refernce to the "knife edge"...I assume that's for a reason...He states "A short traverse along the northern side of the ridge leads to the summit block"
I think my original post was on target for the average peak bagger looking for beta...in that the only tricky section was the steep lower slabs which hold snow and thin morning ice most of the year rather than any reported concerns with the traverse. At the end of the day it's a straightforward class 3 route, it's not rocket surgery. (sic)
There's not that much terrain up there so any climber who should get spooked by the traverse (which seems unlikely to me) can always go down a few 100 feet and select a more appropriate route....and if there are no safe options then just retreat....
As for tenny's...I don't think they indicate anything other than personal preference, and on that particular occasion, bad evaluation of the conditions on the upper 10th of the route. There are many good reasons to wear lighter shoes with stickier rubber on the average Sierra Pk that have nothing to do with climbing ability or some poorly reasoned association with "risk", so I think you're way off base there......but that's a different post altogether

pcase - I also had problems along the summit ridge do to hard icy snow in July last year. I got up on the ridge, but fill on the icy snow and got a littel cut up trying to get over to the high point along the ridge, so I settled for one of the other bumps along the ridge for my the day. I probably could have looked around for a better route, but it was getting late and I was tired and a bit spooked after falling.

The north ridge route is pretty straight forward and you don't encounter any difficult class 3. The talus slope before the class 3 section is a lot less fun than the short class 3 section.

Eventually, I'll go back and touch the top but I got so close and got pretty much the same view as from the top, so I'm not in a big hurry to go back.