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Re: New to rock climbing and taking on the Whaleback, Kings Cany

Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 1:25 pm
by giantbrookie
I would presume you don't want the complication of steep snow in any of the gullies, so you should probably wait (at least) until late June. I realize this is a NW slope rather than N or NE, but it may hold some snow in the gullies well into June, I suspect, but I've never been there that early in the season.

Re: New to rock climbing and taking on the Whaleback, Kings Cany

Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 1:46 pm
by markskor
giantbrookie wrote:I would presume you don't want the complication of steep snow in any of the gullies, so you should probably wait (at least) until late June...It may hold some snow in the gullies well into June, I suspect,
Just finished reading Blehm's The Last Season - now, more than ever, very much aware of the dangers of snow bridges over hidden gullies.
BTW, great read!

Re: New to rock climbing and taking on the Whaleback, Kings Cany

Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 2:05 pm
by maverick
Would highly recommend that you not try any peak climbing in the spring with out
gaining a solid foundation in snow travel. Knowledge in self arrest, using an ice axe, and
being proficient at assessing the terrain (snow bridges, avalanche danger, ect..) should
all be acquired before taking on such endeavors, and not left up to chance or winging it.

Re: New to rock climbing and taking on the Whaleback, Kings Cany

Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 5:53 pm
by Mike M.
Start with class 2 scrambles, then take on a few routes with sections of class 3 expossure to see how comfortable you are. Will you be doing this alone or with a partner?

It might be best to invest some time this summer to getting to know your comfort with class 2 and 3 routes, then take on The Whaleback next year. In the general area surrounding The Whaleback, there are many fine peaks that are class 2. Triple Divide Peak, at the head of Cloud Canyon, is one. (Some of the best views of The Whaleback can be had from the head of Cloud Canyon.) Another fine class 2 peak in the area is Mt. Brewer. The Whaleback is much more difficult to climb than either of these two peaks.

Mike