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Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

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Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

Postby SandStorm » Mon Feb 20, 2012 4:51 pm

Hello all,

Looking for a bit of advice. I'm planning a trip for this summer ending with a jaunt up Mt. Whitney (August 2 or 3). For background: I've taken the trail up Whitney before. I'd rate myself a Class 4 hiker and used to do some rock climbing in Yosemite and SEKI. Haven't done any "real" climbing for years but still enjoy cross country, scrambling, etc. One of the funnest Class 3 routes I remember was the North Face of Mt. Ritter.

I'm taking a look at going up the North Slope of Whitney from Arctic Lake. I haven't been able to find much info about the North Slope route(s) aside from Secor. He says "Class 2-3. Climb the left side of the north slope, just under the northeast ridge. Ascend some shallow chutes leading to a 50-foot high wall of broken blocks. Pass through these blocks and climb directly to the summit."

Anyone been up this way? I'd greatly appreciate any tips.



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Re: Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

Postby maverick » Mon Feb 20, 2012 5:27 pm

Hi Sandstorm

Welcome to HST! See if this TR helps, it has a good description, and plenty of pic's:
http://www.summitpost.org/mount-whitney ... 007/290023
HST= Wilderness Adventurer who knows no bounds, except for their own imagination.

Have a safer backcountry experience by using the HST ReConn Form 2.0, named after Larry Conn, a HST member: http://reconn.org
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Re: Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

Postby markskor » Mon Feb 20, 2012 7:38 pm

Ask again at:
www.whitneyportalstore.com
Great site for all questions Whitney.
Mountainman who swims with trout
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Re: Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

Postby SandStorm » Tue Feb 21, 2012 12:34 am

Many thanks, gents. I tried to post at the Whitney Portal store site but apparently they aren't allowing any new posts due to "space issues". I put a post up at the whitneyzone.com site, though, which I wasn't aware of. Thanks again.
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Re: Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

Postby Rosabella » Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:49 am

Sandstorm, you may want to try posting to the Whitney Board again... there may have been something going on that day with their site, because there are new threads started every day. There are some people on that board that I'm sure could answer your questions.
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Re: Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

Postby RoguePhotonic » Fri Mar 23, 2012 6:08 pm

If you find anything useful let me know. I am considering after making the summit this summer to then take the North side down and back to Guitar Lake.
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Re: Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

Postby Wandering Daisy » Sat Mar 24, 2012 2:29 pm

West Face - "California Fourteener's" states that one of the chutes from Arctic Lake was climbed in 1873. "Passing Arctic Lake on its eastern shore places you in the vicinity of the numerous west chutes" - many variatins class 2-3.
North Face Class 2-3. Similar to west chutes in difficulty. From Arctic Lake go upstream to small lakelets. Many easy gullies between sharp aretes . Although steep, none more than class 3.

Secor-north face- " left side of the north slope" "ascend some shallow chutes leading to a 50-foot high wall of broken blocks. Pass through these blocks and climb directly to summit".

Not much information but the climbs are probably not technically difficult. I suspect they are not very fun either. Looked like a lot of rotton rock when I viewed it from Arctic Lake. These definitely are NOT classic routes on Whitney. There probably is a good reason nobody does them - probably miserable. There are tons of gullies and I am sure many would work. It would be helpful if you had binoculars (or a little monocular) to look at the gullies before deciding which to go up.
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Re: Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

Postby ridgeline » Sun Apr 29, 2012 7:22 am

Rick Kents TR in Summitpost describes this route. I have traversed the North side before back to the chute to Iceberg, snow not too bad, ice scarry as hell.
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Re: Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

Postby SandStorm » Tue May 22, 2012 10:47 am

Thanks for the replies, all.

Daisy, that's part of why it appealed to me.

Rogue, got some good stuff over at the Whitney Zone. http://www.whitneyzone.com/wz/ubbthread ... #Post21541

It's intriguing. If I do go that way I'll certainly post a report.
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Re: Advice re: North Slope of Mt. Whitney

Postby RoguePhotonic » Tue May 22, 2012 12:04 pm

Yeah I read about it but looks like I wont be going to Whitney at all this year. Going to tackle Russell instead.
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