North Peak North Ridge route

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matbat17
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Re: North Peak North Ridge route

Post by matbat17 » Tue Aug 11, 2020 10:44 am

Thanks for all the info. I have been along the East ridge route of Mt Conness several times.
How does it compare ?
Thanks








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themtsarecalling
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Re: North Peak North Ridge route

Post by themtsarecalling » Tue Oct 27, 2020 4:19 pm

I did this route this past August as a link up with the North Ridge of Conness. The second notch had some exposed slabs to work around and some steep class 4 up and out the other side. I wound up in some more class 4 terrain by not staying to the ridge after the final notch but that can probably be avoided. Hope this helps:

https://TheMtsAreCalling.com/north

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Wandering Daisy
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Re: North Peak North Ridge route

Post by Wandering Daisy » Tue Oct 27, 2020 4:58 pm

Very impressive! Especially since you were carrying climbing gear and rope(s). Did you use one rope or take two thinner ropes? Did you have to set up all rappel anchors or was there some set gear? I did the west ridge of Conness years ago and it is a very fun route. I recall the rock was very solid- did you also have good solid rock?

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themtsarecalling
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Re: North Peak North Ridge route

Post by themtsarecalling » Tue Oct 27, 2020 6:51 pm

Wandering Daisy wrote:
Tue Oct 27, 2020 4:58 pm
Very impressive! Especially since you were carrying climbing gear and rope(s). Did you use one rope or take two thinner ropes? Did you have to set up all rappel anchors or was there some set gear? I did the west ridge of Conness years ago and it is a very fun route. I recall the rock was very solid- did you also have good solid rock?
Thanks! I brought a thin 60 meter 8 mm twin rope, that I was planning on retiring soon. I thought that length would be overkill but I was glad for it on the second rappel, got me to much more secure ground. The two rap stations were in good shape hitting it later in the season, although I brought extra webbing with me in case I needed to leave anything.

The rock on the north ridge was incredibly solid, I think the only time I encountered anything loose was traversing beneath the first tower. The northeast ridge of North Peak was quite solid as well, although certainly less traveled than Conness.

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Wandering Daisy
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Re: North Peak North Ridge route

Post by Wandering Daisy » Tue Oct 27, 2020 8:13 pm

I am no longer climbing, but did most of my alpine climbs with twin ropes (never did any solo technical climbing). Although total weight is more than one large diameter rope, on a long approach each of us could carry one lighter rope rather than load down one person with all the rope weight. We would clip alternate biners to reduce rope drag. The ability to do a full length rappel was a great advantage on long routes. I have been out of climbing long enough that I am not sure if double rope technique is done much any more. When we did, it was considered very "European".

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