have these Palisades routes been climbed?
Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 10:55 am
I did two of what seemed fairly obvious routes on my last trip to the Palisades. But when I looked them up I found no reference to them having been climbed before, and there was no evidence on the routes of previous ascents (no gear or cairns, etc). Any info is appreciated!
1. East face of North peak of Temple Crag (III 5.6). Climbs the tall and obvious wall between 26 of July Arete and the Mendenhall colouir. Start at the right angling ramp 50' left of 26 of July arete. Up easy 5th ledges to gain steep 4th class above. Ascend this recess or step left to gain the arete and follow the arete to the base of the steep east face of North Peak. Climb the face starting 50' to the right of a prominent right facing corner. Follow left angling cracks and ledges to the summit of North Peak.
2. Unnamed Peak 3994m to The Thumb via North-Northeast ridge. (III 5.7). This is a long, exposed, and excellent route. The ridge has several cruxes and is varied and continuous. The rock is mostly good, but there are some loose sections. Every tower and spire can be climbed up one side and down the other without much difficulty, most parties will want to rope up for a few short pitches. The best and easiest route is always over the high points. The final notch before the thumb is the crux. From the notch, holds lead right into a crack and flakes. Step back left and up the chimney which becomes easier. At the final difficulty, step right then traverse left onto the tremedously exposed arete, join the "North-Northeast ridge" route in Secor's book.
1. East face of North peak of Temple Crag (III 5.6). Climbs the tall and obvious wall between 26 of July Arete and the Mendenhall colouir. Start at the right angling ramp 50' left of 26 of July arete. Up easy 5th ledges to gain steep 4th class above. Ascend this recess or step left to gain the arete and follow the arete to the base of the steep east face of North Peak. Climb the face starting 50' to the right of a prominent right facing corner. Follow left angling cracks and ledges to the summit of North Peak.
2. Unnamed Peak 3994m to The Thumb via North-Northeast ridge. (III 5.7). This is a long, exposed, and excellent route. The ridge has several cruxes and is varied and continuous. The rock is mostly good, but there are some loose sections. Every tower and spire can be climbed up one side and down the other without much difficulty, most parties will want to rope up for a few short pitches. The best and easiest route is always over the high points. The final notch before the thumb is the crux. From the notch, holds lead right into a crack and flakes. Step back left and up the chimney which becomes easier. At the final difficulty, step right then traverse left onto the tremedously exposed arete, join the "North-Northeast ridge" route in Secor's book.