thunderbolt peak, north couloir in a push - 7/28/19

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bran_daid
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thunderbolt peak, north couloir in a push - 7/28/19

Post by bran_daid » Tue Jul 30, 2019 9:59 am

we went for a super early 1am start from glacier lodge to take advantage of cool temps and a firm refreeze on the glacier. the trail was in great shape and we didn't have any bug trouble getting up. continuous snow began just above sam mack meadow. sunrise came just as we crested onto the lower slopes of the palisade glacier. unlike the u-notch and v-notch, which currently have massive open bergschrunds, the 'schrund on the north couloir of thunderbolt was well bridged and passed without trouble. moderate snow slopes in the couloir gave way to 4th class scrambling along the ridge with the summit block in view. the summit climbing was exciting and exposed, but enjoyable. descending back into the couloir, the temps skyrocketed and we wallowed in slush. because of the rapid warming, we belayed thru the 'schrund downclimb but found it to still be well bridged. with the sun baking and fatigue setting it, we luxuriated in filling our water from rushing waterfalls of snowmelt, glissaded back to sam mack meadow, and began the hike out.









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c9h13no3
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Re: thunderbolt peak, north couloir in a push - 7/28/19

Post by c9h13no3 » Tue Jul 30, 2019 10:35 am

Awesome! The summit block of Thunderbolt has quite a reputation, but you make it look easy.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: thunderbolt peak, north couloir in a push - 7/28/19

Post by Wandering Daisy » Tue Jul 30, 2019 1:45 pm

Quite an achievement to do in a day. I have done that route camping at Third Lake. And yes, to "climb the climb", in my opinion, you need to do the summit block, which actually is the best part of the climb. Do not know if same now, but the register used to be down below the summit block.

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bran_daid
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Re: thunderbolt peak, north couloir in a push - 7/28/19

Post by bran_daid » Tue Jul 30, 2019 4:49 pm

@c9 thanks! after reading about it I was expecting it to be more insecure and exposed than it was. the holds were quite good and positive after all.

@wandering i totally agree that that without topping out the ascent would have an asterisk. i was surprised to see the summit register on the ledge below the top.

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Re: thunderbolt peak, north couloir in a push - 7/28/19

Post by davidsheridan » Mon Aug 05, 2019 9:18 pm

Congrats. You guys were flying! Great Video, sweet mixed climbing techniques all in one trip!

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