Candlelight - should have been Mallory | High Sierra Topix  

Candlelight - should have been Mallory

Topics related to peak bagging, rock climbing and bouldering in the foothills and high country of the Sierra Nevada. Be sure to also check out the Information Booth forum category to learn from / see if you can contribute to a profile for High Sierra 13'ers, 14'ers and cross country passes.

Postby KathyW » Tue Jun 05, 2007 7:04 am

Trekker - thanks for the information - maybe it is something like that - I often get sinus headaches and struggle with congestion - seems like I'm always breathing through my mouth. I'm going to the doctor this afternoon - maybe she'll have an idea what's going on.

Tom - I'm sure you will make Mallory next time.



KathyW
 

User avatar

Postby Rosabella » Thu Jun 07, 2007 6:05 am

Wonderful pictures, Kathy!! There's something so beautiful about the look of the trees right at the timberline.

Hey, Kathy.... are you still coming up to Rainier this summer? There were some bad storms last Fall and some of the roads going up to paradise are still not open.
User avatar
Rosabella
Founding Member
 
Posts: 372
Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 7:58 pm
Location: Washington State
Experience: N/A

Postby KathyW » Thu Jun 07, 2007 7:13 am

Rosabella -

I'm doing a quick trip to Rainier next month to try it again, but I'm not so sure how I'll do - I have good days and bad days lately. I went to the doctor a couple of days ago and she seems to have an idea what's wrong, but wants to do some testing to rule out other things before treating me; so hopefully I'll be in good shape when I head up Washington in mid-July.

I hear that they aren't giving out permits for the Wonderland Trail this year do to the damage from the storms, so it must be bad out there. It sounds like the main road into Paradise from the Seattle area is open and there wasn't too much damage to Muir Camp. It sounds like they make sure the main tourist routes are fixed before anything else.

Kathy
KathyW
 

User avatar

Postby Rosabella » Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:09 am

Yeah... we had hoped to do at least part of the Wonderland Trail this year, but decided to put it off 'til next year.

Let's hook up some where. Are you driving up? If so, I live just south of Olympia right on I-5. If you're flying, I could meet you. I don't know how much time you'll have, but maybe we could do a warm-up on Mt. St. Helens before you do Rainier?
User avatar
Rosabella
Founding Member
 
Posts: 372
Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 7:58 pm
Location: Washington State
Experience: N/A

User avatar

Postby giantbrookie » Thu Jun 07, 2007 11:03 am

KathyW wrote:I think next time I try it I'll start at Arc Pass like I did for Irvine.

Harry: I hear McAdie is a tough one. I looked at it from Arc Pass a couple of years ago and it looked like a tough one.

Candlelight was nice, but Mallory would have been nicer.


Mallory is pretty mellow class 2 from Meysan Lake, so I don't know if Arc Pass is necessarily better. I did Mallory in 1979 as part of a 3 peak combo from Meysan Lake, doing Irvine first (class 2), descending into the bowl between Irvine and Mallory, then climbing Mallory (class 2), then traversing over and getting LeConte (class 3 with one class 4+ section the variant I did--I did a bypass of what later became known as the notorious "waterfall pitch") before descending from the Mallory-LeConte plateau to Meysan Lake. The bowl between Irvine and Mallory is reached by the same chute that one uses to access the upper slopes of Irvine. There is a class 2 route from this bowl (with lots of options) that is diagrammed in Secor (I worked out this route long before Secor's more detailed description existed by simply looking at the topo). From Meysan Lake, the other class 2 route would be to hit the Le Conte-Mallory plateau directly from Meysan Lake. Those chutes (or perhaps there is only one viable chute?) are somewhat crummier (looser) than the Irvine-Mallory chute. When I did the 3 peak traverse I ended up descending that slope blind (because of having ascended to the crest via the Irvine-Mallory chute), missed the class 2 chute altogether and ended up downclimbing several loose class 3 drop offs.

Regarding McAdie, there is an interesting note in the Climber.org reports that is worth looking into. Traditionally the easiest route on Mc Adie involves some rather aerial upper 3rd class stuff. There is an account on climber.org of someone looking down a chute from Mc Adie that appears to go straight down to the Crabtree-Miter Basin col (I think that's called Crabtree Pass). The account stated that it looked like the chute was scree/talus bottomed all the way without vanishing points (ie hidden drop offs) and appeared class 2. I haven't checked in lately to see if anyone has in fact ascended or descended this route to verify this. I've looked at my photos taken in 1996 from Crabtree Pass and I'm not sure I can tell what chute they're talking about, but my camera angles may be too oblique to really pick up the chute. With lots of chutes like that, you need to be looking right up their axis to really see the details (the one on Williamson's standard route and the one on LeConte would certainly fit that category).
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html
User avatar
giantbrookie
Founding Member & Forums Moderator
Founding Member & Forums Moderator
 
Posts: 2439
Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2005 10:22 am
Location: Fresno
Experience: N/A

User avatar

Postby madeintahoe » Thu Jun 07, 2007 8:48 pm

Kathy....Those are really beautiful pictures....Tom your's too :nod:

That is a gorgeous area....I was really wondering what it looked like when I was at Arc Pass last summer..looking up there!
Thank you for posting :)
User avatar
madeintahoe
Topix Expert
 
Posts: 467
Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2005 9:58 am
Location: South Lake Tahoe, Meyers, CA.
Experience: N/A

User avatar

Postby langenbacher » Fri Jun 08, 2007 11:07 am

giantbrookie wrote:
Regarding McAdie, .... There is an account on climber.org of someone looking down a chute from Mc Adie that appears to go straight down to the Crabtree-Miter Basin col ...The account stated that it looked like the chute was scree/talus bottomed all the way ...appeared class 2. I haven't checked in lately to see if anyone has in fact ascended or descended this route to verify this.


Mike Bigelow wrote:Mt. McAdie was a delight. After his 1998 trip, Steve Eckert stated that the chute leading from Crabtree Pass appeared to offer a class two route to the summit of this fine peak. This is confirmed. My son and I climbed this chute to the notch in forty minutes. The rock in the middle is loose but is avoided by staying on the ledges on either side. There are no cliff bands and no exposure. Once at the notch between the North and South peaks, the route is a bit exposed but not at all hard. It seems class two is correct for this route. If you are making the trip from Sky Blue Lake to the Crabtree Lakes, I recommend this side trip. You won't be disappointed.


See his trip report at http://climber.org/TripReports/2002/897.html

Steve now lists McAdie as a class 2 peak on climber.org .

This is the route I would like to do McAdie by - and there are 7 other class 1-2 (+ one class 3) 13'ers in striking distance of Sky Blue Lake.
User avatar
langenbacher
Topix Acquainted
 
Posts: 49
Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 3:53 pm
Location: Fullerton, CA
Experience: N/A

Previous

Return to Peak Bagging / Rock Climbing / Bouldering



Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Yahoo [Bot] and 7 guests