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Mt Russell (14,086') - 3 day backpack

Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:43 pm
by Snow Nymph
Whitney Portal to a secluded spot east of Upper Boy Scout Lake
Day 1 of 3: http://community.webshots.com/album/553365904LDnhKN


Two years ago we turned back at ~13,900', I chickened out. A friend said he would take us up to Mt Russell so we set a date. He had a climbing accident in June and fell ~1,000' when a cornice broke from under him (CO), but thought he would be ready 10+ weeks later. He wasn't, so we decided to try it ourselves.

I had a few moments where I was ready to turn back. :puke: Mainly from the exposure. :retard: SnowDude spent a lot of time climbing up and down looking for the best way to go, as I kept telling him to "be careful". :paranoid: I think in my head I was worried about how we were going to get down some of the places we climbed up. We had some rope, but the exposure is what got me :eek:

My hero got us up there! :D :D :D

Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 8:41 pm
by ifernau
Wow Snow Nymph, those pictures are scary at times. I glad you made it o.k. I always enjoy your story telling phtos.

Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:49 am
by Snow Nymph
Day 2 of 3: Mt Russell summit day: http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/553367010nmAyON

Our second try was successful! :D

Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 5:30 am
by ridgeline
Great shots! the best I have seen of this ridge. How long did it take from the start on the ridge up and back? Im glad you guys made it. Mucho exposure!

Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 5:57 am
by wingding
Great pictures. I have the same question as ridgeline - how long did the ridge take?

Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 9:05 am
by Trailtrekker06
YIKES!!!!!! Great shots (although I don't like the new Webshots site so far)and OHMIGOD the exposure- I was reeling just looking at the pics!! :eek: Ummm- I think I'll have to get alot more used to exposure before I go near that one. Congrats on another great climb!!!

Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:37 am
by Buck Forester
Wow, congrats on a great and successful climb! Those are some great photos! That Tulainyo Lake is very photogenic.

Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:50 pm
by ifernau
Wow again. What an adventure :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:03 pm
by Snow Nymph
Thanks, Inge. Its easier than writing a trip report. Camera is always out so I don't forget anything. :D


Ridgeline and wingding, Everyone hikes at a different pace, and I know I was being extra cautious on this one. SnowDude did all the route finding, I was partially frozen with fear, looking down at the exposure after each move, and wondering if we could get back. I normally don't have a problem with class 3 and it wasn't that hard, but with class 5 exposure it scared the sh!t outta me with each move. :puke: I've had vertigo and didn't want to make any mistakes up there, like when I was climbing Banner. I got up a vertical snow/ice chute, got my leg up on the boulder at the top, relaxed for a second, then the next thing I knew I was sliding down backwards, head first. Somehow I ended up with my ice axe in place under me. I don't know what happened, it happened so fast! :retard:

From Russell-Carillon Pass it took ~3 hrs to the east summit and another 40 min to the west summit. We took a 1/2 hr break where we turned around last time, stashed our packs and took only a jacket, water and snacks. I know at another place we spent ~20 min trying to get past a rough spot. There were a lot of tough spots. Coming back it only took 2 hrs from west summit to R/C Pass. It was probably easier because between the two of us we remembered which gnarly route we took to get up.


Trailtrekker, I told SnowDude I was ok turning back, but he probably didn't hear me, or maybe he was ignoring me. I've been having trouble with exposure lately . . . . :( And yes, I hate the new webshots "improvements". :angry:

Buck, Tulainyo is a beautiful lake. We camped by it 2 years ago. The water is so clean there's nothing growing on the rocks at the shoreline.

Still working on day 3!

Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 9:29 pm
by Trekker
The only way I would do something like that is with a parachute strapped to my back and 3 feet of styrofoam surrounding my body!!! :eek: Or if I was bitten by a radioactive spider.............

Incredible pics! :notworthy: To get shots like that while climbing something that risky takes guts! :puke: And don't worry about having trouble with exposure; it proves you're still sane......doesn't it? :-k