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Mt Russell (14,086') - 3 day backpack

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Mt Russell (14,086') - 3 day backpack

Postby Snow Nymph » Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:43 pm

Whitney Portal to a secluded spot east of Upper Boy Scout Lake
Day 1 of 3: http://community.webshots.com/album/553365904LDnhKN


Two years ago we turned back at ~13,900', I chickened out. A friend said he would take us up to Mt Russell so we set a date. He had a climbing accident in June and fell ~1,000' when a cornice broke from under him (CO), but thought he would be ready 10+ weeks later. He wasn't, so we decided to try it ourselves.

I had a few moments where I was ready to turn back. :puke: Mainly from the exposure. :retard: SnowDude spent a lot of time climbing up and down looking for the best way to go, as I kept telling him to "be careful". :paranoid: I think in my head I was worried about how we were going to get down some of the places we climbed up. We had some rope, but the exposure is what got me :eek:

My hero got us up there! :D :D :D
Last edited by Snow Nymph on Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
Expose yourself to your deepest fear; after that, fear has no power, and the fear of freedom shrinks and vanishes. You are free . . . . Jim Morrison


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Postby ifernau » Tue Aug 29, 2006 8:41 pm

Wow Snow Nymph, those pictures are scary at times. I glad you made it o.k. I always enjoy your story telling phtos.
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Postby Snow Nymph » Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:49 am

Day 2 of 3: Mt Russell summit day: http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/553367010nmAyON

Our second try was successful! :D
Expose yourself to your deepest fear; after that, fear has no power, and the fear of freedom shrinks and vanishes. You are free . . . . Jim Morrison


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Postby ridgeline » Wed Aug 30, 2006 5:30 am

Great shots! the best I have seen of this ridge. How long did it take from the start on the ridge up and back? Im glad you guys made it. Mucho exposure!
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Postby wingding » Wed Aug 30, 2006 5:57 am

Great pictures. I have the same question as ridgeline - how long did the ridge take?
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Postby Trailtrekker06 » Wed Aug 30, 2006 9:05 am

YIKES!!!!!! Great shots (although I don't like the new Webshots site so far)and OHMIGOD the exposure- I was reeling just looking at the pics!! :eek: Ummm- I think I'll have to get alot more used to exposure before I go near that one. Congrats on another great climb!!!
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Postby Buck Forester » Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:37 am

Wow, congrats on a great and successful climb! Those are some great photos! That Tulainyo Lake is very photogenic.
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Postby ifernau » Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:50 pm

Wow again. What an adventure :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
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Postby Snow Nymph » Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:03 pm

Thanks, Inge. Its easier than writing a trip report. Camera is always out so I don't forget anything. :D


Ridgeline and wingding, Everyone hikes at a different pace, and I know I was being extra cautious on this one. SnowDude did all the route finding, I was partially frozen with fear, looking down at the exposure after each move, and wondering if we could get back. I normally don't have a problem with class 3 and it wasn't that hard, but with class 5 exposure it scared the sh!t outta me with each move. :puke: I've had vertigo and didn't want to make any mistakes up there, like when I was climbing Banner. I got up a vertical snow/ice chute, got my leg up on the boulder at the top, relaxed for a second, then the next thing I knew I was sliding down backwards, head first. Somehow I ended up with my ice axe in place under me. I don't know what happened, it happened so fast! :retard:

From Russell-Carillon Pass it took ~3 hrs to the east summit and another 40 min to the west summit. We took a 1/2 hr break where we turned around last time, stashed our packs and took only a jacket, water and snacks. I know at another place we spent ~20 min trying to get past a rough spot. There were a lot of tough spots. Coming back it only took 2 hrs from west summit to R/C Pass. It was probably easier because between the two of us we remembered which gnarly route we took to get up.


Trailtrekker, I told SnowDude I was ok turning back, but he probably didn't hear me, or maybe he was ignoring me. I've been having trouble with exposure lately . . . . :( And yes, I hate the new webshots "improvements". :angry:

Buck, Tulainyo is a beautiful lake. We camped by it 2 years ago. The water is so clean there's nothing growing on the rocks at the shoreline.

Still working on day 3!
Expose yourself to your deepest fear; after that, fear has no power, and the fear of freedom shrinks and vanishes. You are free . . . . Jim Morrison


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Postby Trekker » Wed Aug 30, 2006 9:29 pm

The only way I would do something like that is with a parachute strapped to my back and 3 feet of styrofoam surrounding my body!!! :eek: Or if I was bitten by a radioactive spider.............

Incredible pics! :notworthy: To get shots like that while climbing something that risky takes guts! :puke: And don't worry about having trouble with exposure; it proves you're still sane......doesn't it? :-k
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Postby madeintahoe » Wed Aug 30, 2006 10:15 pm

SN...Really beautiful exciting pictures. You and Snowdude did such an awesome job taking pictures of the route you took to show everyone. I have looked at soooo many pictures of this route from so many people..they all show it all so different. Yours are great as you really captured what it is really like.
As much as I have been so fascinated with this peak..Seeing your pictures of it makes me really think if I should even try Russell..the granite looks to be that nice sticky stuff which is good..but I don't know how I would handle that exposure.
I like the butt hiking & wall hugging :nod: ..as im sure I would have been doing that too. It looks like you two were mostly on the right side Tulainyo side going up?

What a fantastic day this must have been for the two of you! Congratulations :D
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Postby Snow Nymph » Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:41 pm

Day 3 of 3: Back to Whitney Portal via the slabs above Lower Boy Scout Lake
Photos: http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/553366110WrybpS


It was a short day so we took our time packing, and enjoyed our quiet little campsite. Doug Sr told us about a route by the slabs above LBSL, so we tried it. Fun route coming down, probably easier with daypacks. The burgers and beer were awesome, and while waiting for showers we met Rosabella!
Expose yourself to your deepest fear; after that, fear has no power, and the fear of freedom shrinks and vanishes. You are free . . . . Jim Morrison


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