Re: Which passes are most underrated in terms of difficulty?
Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:16 am
The rating system has additional "qualifers" for more difficult climbing. For example, a 5.6 is easy technically, but you can also add a "grade" I, II, III etc. that takes into account the sustained difficulty and length of the climb. It is also becoming common to add a "G" "PG" "R" or "X" qualifier on rock climbs - "G" being pretty safe even for beginners and "X" being "fall you die" usually due to no way to protect the climb. Unfortunately, the easier ratings, Class 1-4 do not use these qualifiers. I am not for changing the definition of Class 1, 2, 3 but qualifers should be added. I have engaged in technical climbing for over 40 years and the rating system is very clear to me, but not everyone picking up a guidebook may be very experienced in rating systems. Secor's guide IS a CLIMBING guide - backpackers are not his priority. He is vague and terse on passes and descriptions on how to get to the climbs. Every guidebook writer has page limits, so you have to edit, and actual climbing route descriptions get higher priority.
And I have had the same experience as SSSDave- if you are a few feet off you can be in an entirely different situation. And what is "difficult" to someone may be easy for someone else. For me, Alpine Col was actually fun. I am very comfortable on talus, even large blocks. Also, just knowing a few climbing moves (like layback, hand jam techniques) helps a lot. Sometimes all it takes is one or two climbing moves and you are up.
I always carry some parachute cord for lowering and hauling my pack if need be. It does not take much pack weight to throw me off balance. I have had to lower my pack on several class 2 passes. I am short and it does not take much of a rock wall for me to have to "scramble" down.
Continous poor footing (ball bearing round scree or sand) on a steep pass makes it very dangerous, although not necessarily more "difficult" technically. A class 3 pass with poor footing, however, is NOT a class 5 pass. Class 5 is not just anything that anybody would use a rope on. It is a specific difficulty, confirmed repeatedly by experienced rock climbers. There really needs to be an ENTIRELY NEW classification system passes and easier terrain. By using the rock climbing classification you are trying to pound a square peg into a round hole.
Hopefully the lack of information in the guidbooks can be made up with our High Sierra Topix pass information. Thanks for everyone who is contributing!
And I have had the same experience as SSSDave- if you are a few feet off you can be in an entirely different situation. And what is "difficult" to someone may be easy for someone else. For me, Alpine Col was actually fun. I am very comfortable on talus, even large blocks. Also, just knowing a few climbing moves (like layback, hand jam techniques) helps a lot. Sometimes all it takes is one or two climbing moves and you are up.
I always carry some parachute cord for lowering and hauling my pack if need be. It does not take much pack weight to throw me off balance. I have had to lower my pack on several class 2 passes. I am short and it does not take much of a rock wall for me to have to "scramble" down.
Continous poor footing (ball bearing round scree or sand) on a steep pass makes it very dangerous, although not necessarily more "difficult" technically. A class 3 pass with poor footing, however, is NOT a class 5 pass. Class 5 is not just anything that anybody would use a rope on. It is a specific difficulty, confirmed repeatedly by experienced rock climbers. There really needs to be an ENTIRELY NEW classification system passes and easier terrain. By using the rock climbing classification you are trying to pound a square peg into a round hole.
Hopefully the lack of information in the guidbooks can be made up with our High Sierra Topix pass information. Thanks for everyone who is contributing!