Okay, so here goes my second attempt at posting this trip report - this time, I will be saving drafts so as not to lose the whole thing again.
On the morning of Tuesday September 4, 2012, I set out from home for the long drive north on US 395. The drive was smooth and uneventful, with virtually no traffic. For the first time ever, I had to wait for a train as it rode up the valley of the Garlock fault, across the highway north of Randsburg. Somewhere between Independence and the Rest Area south of Big Pine, the 20% chance of showers/thunderstorms became reality. Around 1PM, I was at the Bishop office of the USFS, where I obtained a non-reserve permit - in under 10 minutes, I was on my way directly to the Sabrina Basin Trailhead. I parked my truck adjacent to the Sabrina Campground, and went about final preparations as a light rain fell. To ensure proper hydration and to limit the need to carry much water, I downed about a half gallon of water before setting out. The sky looked menacing, especially toward the west, but at 3:15PM I was ready to leave -
Along the road to Sabrina Lake I walked, until I got to the construction zone where the Bridge over Bishop Creek is being replaced. There I had to wait while an excavator filled a dump truck, then continued on the official trailhead. At 3:30PM, I was on the trail to begin my journey. After passing a packtrain and several outbound hikers, I was past the Sabrina Lake Dam, adjusting to the strain of a too heavy pack, and the lack of time acclimating at altitude, when the rain began to fall in a driving wind. I took shelter under a white bark pine, waiting for the worst of the weather to pass, before pressing on under clearing skies to the obligatory wilderness boundary photo -
Those who know this trail know that from that point the trail begins climbing with little shade until approaching the creeks draining from George Lakes. It was refreshing to find both of these creeks flowing well, where I stopped briefly to wet my bandana and wipe my sweaty face. Given that this was my fourth time hiking this trail, I felt good in knowing what to expect. After the initial climb, I took a short break to remove my pack and eat a snack, then resumed climbing. As I climbed the last steep section of engineered switchbacks below Blue Lake, a pika made itself plain to see right between two switchbacks, but did not pose long enough for a picture. Around 6:10PM I snapped this photo as I crossed the outlet stream of Blue Lake -
After crossing the outlet, and walking past the illegal campsites too close to the water, I briefly spoke with a man who was taking photos (the first person encountered since talking with an outbound hiker at the George Creek crossing), who said he was camped somewhere nearby - I continued on without seeing his camp. My intended destination was the bench above the south end of Blue Lake, near the inlet. By 6:30PM, I rolled into the camp spot that I had stayed at seven years earlier, and immediately dropped my pack and began to set up tent. It was not until after setting up my camp that I noticed I had a neighbor nearby, but at that point it was too late to move, and I was not going to hoist the pack again. Anyway, there was a canyon and about 100 yards between us, with sheltering trees on both sides, and the rushing sound of the inlet creek, so the relatively close proximity was not a problem. In near darkness, I went down to the lake to collect water, then filtered the water back at camp. I enjoyed a good hot meal with tea, secured all of my smellables, then retired to the tent for the night at about 9:30PM. After a long day, I quickly fell asleep, and slept soundly through the night.
On Wednesday 9/5/12, I awoke refreshed, to clear skies -
and set about making a pot of coffee and breakfast of oatmeal with raisins and walnuts. Clouds began building early on, and it felt as though the chance for rain was good. After breakfast, I rigged up my fly rod with a stimulator, then went down to fish the south end of Blue Lake, near the inlet. The inlet area is quite shallow, and there were fish rising. After snagging a tree and breaking off my tippet, I was able to retrieve the stuck fly and tippet from the tree, so moved to an area where the shallow inlet waters deepened against the side of a cliff. Here I caught my first brook trout, an 8-inch class fish that got me started.
I climbed back to my camp, and packed for a day hike, then set off with fly rod in hand to ply the waters of the inlet stream above Blue Lake. There were lots of eager trout in the stream, but most were tiny. This stream comes down from Baboon Lakes high above, and contains both brook and rainbow trout. Still using the stimulator, I enticed this pretty little rainbow from the stream -
The little guy came out of this spot, a creek flowing atop granite -
Continuing upstream, I came to a use trail to Donkey Lake, which would be today's destination. I climbed up over the ridge, past a drying tarn, then down to the west shore of Donkey Lake, a pretty little lake resting below the flank of Thompson Ridge. Finding a crack in the cliff, I was able to get down to the lake, where I cast along the cliff face for a pair of brook trout, and then the rain began - it was about 2:15PM. Climbing out of the crack, I explored the broad bench for a while, working my way north, back toward my camp. I found another spot along the west shore of Donkey Lake, where the access to the water was easier, and the ability to fly cast was unimpeded. I caught a couple more brook trout, but the rain was getting wetter, as shown in this photo -
I continued working my way back toward camp, boulder hopping near the outlet of Donkey Lake, then traversing down the west side of a ridge, before rejoining the stream that I had fished earlier. I walked upstream a little ways, and scared a deer from its resting place. Like the deer, at this point I crossed the stream, and soon found the use trail that would lead me back to camp. Back in camp, the rain intensified, and at about 3:15PM a hail storm began, lasting for 15 minutes. Around 4:40PM, the first and only roll of thunder for the whole trip echoed through the canyon. Rain continued off and on for the rest of the afternoon, but never heavy enough to cause concern, but enough to keep the dust down. My neighbor huddled against the rain, taking shelter under a bright yellow umbrella. I made dinner of black bean tacos and an instant Thai coffee drink, while watching raindrops and trout dimple the surface of Blue Lake. Later that evening, the neighbor played a single tune on a flute - the sound seemed so natural, my first impression was the flute must be of Native American design.
On Thursday 9/6/12, I again woke to clear skies, but there was condensation dripping from the rainfly of my tent. My original intent was to only spend a night or two at Blue Lake, and to move around the basin. However, the recent forecast had cast doubt that lingered throughout the trip. Given that my gear was dry, I decided that my camp at Blue Lake was going to serve as a basecamp for the rest of my trip, and that my explorations would be done as day hikes. Five years previous, I had camped at Midnight and Moonlight Lakes, so for this trip the exploration would involve the area upstream of Blue Lake.
As Thursday morning progressed, the weather looked ominous. I hung around camp after breakfast, taking time to write in my journal, and exploring the immediate surroundings of my camp. The neighbor came by and introduced herself as she departed for a day hike. I inquired about the music, and she confirmed that indeed her instrument was a flute of Native American design, and she promised to play another tune for me later. Also took time to gather and filter water. Rain started at about 1:20PM, and during the rain, I made a hot lunch of ramen and a cup of coffee. Around 3PM, I headed out to fish the west shore of Blue Lake, and marvel at the ever changing light cast upon this high Sierra setting -
Setting up my spinning rod with a single hook Kastmaster in blue/chrome, I caught and easily released a couple brook trout. Under intermitent rain showers, I worked along the west shore, nearly to the outlet, before beginning my trek back toward camp. At one nice rocky point, I switched over to my fly rod, but found no takers. I completed my day of fishing Blue Lake by scrambling up a boulder-choked gully near my camp, then strolling over the slabs back to camp. Back in camp, I prepared my dinner and a cup of tea. The neighbor played another tune - it was a good day.
Friday morning 9/7/12 broke clear and cool, with the ground soaked wherever the rain from Wednesday had touched the surface. After breakfast and coffee, I gathered and filtered water, then began preparations for a day hike up to Baboon Lakes. I started out from camp just before noon, and upon my neighbor's recommendation, took the signed trail to -
rather than hiking up the canyon streamside. The trail climbed steeply at first, and I huffed and puffed upward, hugging the west wall of the canyon, eventually reaching an elevation above 11,000 feet, before dropping down to beautiful Baboon Lakes -
Just about an hour after leaving camp, I arrived along the northwest shore of the lowest Baboon Lake, and set about exploring the immediate surroundings. Seeing many dimples on the surface, I quickly found a good looking spot, and set up my fly rod, tying on an old fly called a Palisades Special that I had purchased from the Cardinal Village Resort Store many years prior. On my very first cast, I caught a beautiful and feisty brook trout, and for the next nearly four hours, it was game on! In that time span, I probably caught and released 40 fish. I caught fish on an elk hair caddis, an olive(?) matuka, and the most productive fly was a California mosquito, which caught fish until I removed the fly because it was wasted! Nearing my time to depart, I tied on a pattern that I believe is called a punk perch, cast it out and got struck immediately, but I missed the hook. Casting again, I was hit, but this time set the hook. Right away, it was obvious that this fish was different than the brook trout that I had been catching. This fish took to the air, and repeatedly jumped trying to shake the hook. When brought to hand, I was impressed by the stunning beauty of this rainbow trout -
It was about the length of my boot, so conservatively I would say this was a 12-inch fish. I caught one more brook trout, then broke down and stowed my gear for my hike back to camp. I was impressed by the scenery at this spot -
Leaving Baboon Lake a little past 5PM, I was able to make it back to camp just after 6PM. As soon as I arrived at camp, the neighbor called me over for a chat. We chatted and exchanged e-mail addresses, and agreed to share photos. I was impressed by the fact that this woman, just a year younger than my own mother, was out here in the wilderness by herself for a week.
Though the weather remained dry on this day, there were plenty of clouds about, providing for a good evening light show -
As usual, I don't feel these pictures do justice to the actual scene, but they do give an idea for those who have seen these sights with their own eyes.
I went to bed on Friday with a sense of satisfaction in having gotten into the high Sierra to see some great sights, and caught some beautiful fish using my limited fly fishing skills.
On Saturday 9/8/12, I awoke knowing it was the day to return home. I leisurely enjoyed coffee and a smoothy while packing my gear. I visited with my neighbor for a bit -
and she promised to play a tune of departure for me, as a means of ensuring my safe passage.
Around 10:15AM, I hoisted my pack, and with a nice tune, I was on my way down the trail. My sense of solitude was gone, as I ran into 3 different groups (including a pack train) by the time I reached the outlet of Blue Lake. As I passed the wilderness sign, another picture was necessary -
Still closer to the trailhead, I found this sign that summer is coming to an end, and autumn is fast approaching -
And by 12:30PM, I was back at the truck, much richer for the experience.
Thanks for reading.
Herm