TR: Vogelsang / Lyell Loop July 31 - August 1

[sambieni]

I just returned from Yosemite where I set out for a 3 day trip from Tuolomne -> Rafferty Creek to Vogelsang -> JMT via Ireland Lake trail/junction.

I scored the permit week or so before and got the final one for the area. The at-distance/online permit process is a real breeze. Really a fan, but can envision a time we return to the old format for pickup. I raced up to the area on Thursday, 7/30 and considered camping in Lee Vining area. But made such great tim.

I stayed in the TM Backpackers camp night before setting out. It was so quiet with nearly everything shut down. Need to park along the main route and walk 1/10 mile or so w/ your gear into the camp-site. They are letting folks stay in the backpacker's area and overflow to Loop A (and bit beyond). NPS rangers via phone and at Lee Vining gas station try to discourage folks from staying there, but it is feasible to do so and be socially distant as long as you're willing to carry gear into the campground from the road.

Weather my trip was warmer than I would have liked, but still great. Mid-70s high each day and nights in mid-40s (if not warmer). No clouds ever. Sunny, blue skies.

Trip up to Rafferty - Hit trail bit later than envisioned - about 915 or so. Uneventful up, but beautiful. The long and gradual is quite welcome. Water was REALLY REALLY low. Other than the creek nearby in mile 2-3 or so, there are no sources and all the ones running across the trail on the Tom Harrison maps were long since dry for the year. First water source after this is the tarn around Tuolomne Pass.

Got to Vogelsang in about 4 hours. Relaxed, ate up, chatted w hike or two. Rangers came thru and did check for permit and bear cans. I knew I did not want to stay at the camp or nearby lake. I stayed there few years ago and didn't love it strangely. Wanted change of pace. Plus time before i was too beat to explore Vogelsang Pass. So thats what I did. Head up to the pass. Took me an exhausting hour + to get to the pass; altitude hitting me hard as well as zero shade and strong sun. Every hundred feet, I said I would turn around, but kept pushing and glad I did. Views out to Cloud's Rest and Half Dome were perfect. Got to the pass, considered hopping down to Bernice Lake for the night, but decided didn't want to climb back next day.

Came down and walked along Fletcher Lake. I was not eager to set up camp there, but was around mile 10 and pretty beat. Nonethless, didn;t love the numbers of folks doing the same and really wanted more quiet, plus push myself harder and longer. 10 miles is usually my cut off, but decided to go to Evelyn Lake knowing the trail was gradual.

Off to Evelyn was fine, but the slight climb back up to 10,400 feet or so hit me hard. I was clearly near dehydrated with so much sun past few hours. Did fair bit drinking and upping my salts and felt fine.

Got into sight of Evelyn and she was a beauty. Nobody around. Just gorgeous country. I knew I made right call. I got near the backside where the beach is and came across a couple and assume a younger friend? daughter? all skinny dipping to cool down. Good for 'em. Didn't mean to break up the party as I looked for a site. It was now 6 pm and later than I usually like to get into camp. There is a great tree that forms a break parallel to the beach/shoreline and 100 yards or so away from the lake. Perfect spot.

Night was quiet and relaxing. Great rest once I finally let my mind shut off and go to sleep.

Hiked out the next day towards JMT. The Ireland Lake junction has zero water; I expected to find some. Was glad I took 2 liters and not just 1 for my morning as a precaution because as a huge water drinker this was my plan for resupply on route down. Once I hit JMT, it was before noon. While Lyell Canyon is gorgeous, it was also super hot and dry and felt like the perfect afternoon to relax if I was with a friend or my wife. But solo, I didn't feel desire to stick around and swim or read. So my 3 day trip became 2 days. I was beat, but hiked the remaining 5 or so miles back to TM. Organized/cleaned up a touch and hopped in the car back to SoCal surprising the fam late that night.

Great trip and really glad pushed my mileage harder than my usual. Mozzies were only a problem for 30 seconds in Evelyn Lake. Really none to be had. Water sources are running dry and definitely a potential issue if you're a person who likes to go light and refill constantly. The heat and dryness is intense, more than I recall as well. But all in all a great, easy solo loop. Can't wait for next one.

[rlown]

I'm guessing that shot of your tent was at Evelyn.. My favorite campsite!

[sambieni]

I'm guessing that shot of your tent was at Evelyn.. My favorite campsite!

Yes it is camp at Evelyn Lake. Never been there before. Such a great, quiet place! I loved my spot - a single tree break within quick distance of the lake for water supply, could hear fish jumping as I slept, but all far enough to do your personal business w/out needing take a long walk away from your water supply.

[rlown]

We love that spot..

HPIM0380.jpg

[sambieni]

Yea it was perfect. I walked around the beach area a bit to find a spot and just kept calling back to this one so I grabbed it. Shade near sunset while setting up and eating dinner. In the morning, I packed up and moved all my gear to the Western side for breakfast in the shade. It is a great spot.