Ediza, Garnet, 1000 Island Questions

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robow8
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Ediza, Garnet, 1000 Island Questions

Post by robow8 »

So last year, I was hoping to visit this area, but had to go visit kids/grandkids instead. Which was good too.
Anyway, I am going this year; have a permit to start July 22. Which happens to be my grandson's birthday. And he is coming with my wife and I. We are so excited for this; it's practically all my wife can think about!
We are driving up to Mammoth on Saturday, and staying there for a couple of nights to help acclimatize.
So, we are hiking in on Monday, and coming out on Saturday. We are going to Ediza the first day, and will spend probably two nights there, then go to Garnet for a night or two, and spend the remaining nights at 1000 Island and hike out on the High Trail on Saturday.
My Questions:
From everything I can tell, there is no longer a log crossing at the outlet of Ediza. Do I need to get to the South side of the lake to get to camping? Will I need to walk around the lake?
Camping at Garnet. Can I get to the west end of the lake from the South side of the lake?
I would really like to try going over Garnet Pass to 1000 Island lake. Am I missing anything by going that way? Are the lakes and views worth taking the JMT around to 1000 Island lake?
Fishing. I'm okay with either, but not sure what my grandson would like to do. Is the fishing good in these lakes?
If you have any other bits of advice for this hike, I would appreciate it.
Thanks!
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markskor
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Re: Ediza, Garnet, 1000 Island Questions

Post by markskor »

robow8 wrote: Sat Feb 23, 2019 10:21 am Camping at Garnet. Can I get to the west end of the lake from the South side of the lake?
I would really like to try going over Garnet Pass to 1000 Island lake. Am I missing anything by going that way? Are the lakes and views worth taking the JMT around to 1000 Island lake?
Fishing. I'm okay with either, but not sure what my grandson would like to do. Is the fishing good in these lakes?
If you have any other bits of advice for this hike, I would appreciate it.
I prefer going over the back-side pass from Garnet (G) to 1000 Isl (TI)...(Don't know if that is called Garnet Pass, but...)
Coming up on the JMT from Ediza, once you hit G, the JMT goes right - north, but there is a good but faint use trail to the left, going south... back to the south west end of Garnet. Good camping sites everywhere backside. At the SW corner of G there is a big rock/ stream exit...the pass trail over to TI starts just behind this large round rock...easy and scenic as heck back there too. The pass itself is way easy...low actually, and soon drops you off backside TI. I actually prefer this route over the JMT north side trail from G to TI as there are no people and avoids the crowds that bunch up in the trees on the north sides of both G and TI. There are many no camping posted signs at the northern outlet of both lakes...lots of bears and lots of people...and not much solitude.
Once at the backside of TI, (lots of great camp spots), you are camping at the base of/just below Banner...reminds me of the Lion King...and the probability of zero people or bears backside.
As for fishing - both lakes - lots of good chances for decent sized Brookies and 'Bows...there are lots of deep holes backside. I mostly throw lures (red/yellow/orange) ...Z-Rays (3/8 oz) or Panther Martins (1/4)...with past great results. Fly and bubble also productive on the morning/evening rise. BTW, A few years back, somehow snagged a 6 pound 'Bow right there, backside TI.
A use trail, both north or south side TI will lead you back to the mouth of TI and to rejoin the freeway trails again...great trip!
Mountainman who swims with trout
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Re: Ediza, Garnet, 1000 Island Questions

Post by c9h13no3 »

robow8 wrote: Sat Feb 23, 2019 10:21 am From everything I can tell, there is no longer a log crossing at the outlet of Ediza. Do I need to get to the South side of the lake to get to camping? Will I need to walk around the lake?
When I was there a couple years ago, the log crossing was gone. It looked like we could ford the stream, but we just talus hopped around the lake on the north side and forded the inlet (and then continued up to Cecile lake to camp). And yes, the north side of Ediza is largely a talus field with no camping. But there are many good spots at the west end of the lake, but it was a little bit crowded. I think they had the southern end of the lake closed to camping for restoration at the time, but I can't remember.

Minaret lake was my favorite in the region. The snowfield from Iceberg to Cecile is no joke tho.
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Re: Ediza, Garnet, 1000 Island Questions

Post by SSSdave »

rob >>>"Will I need to walk around the lake?"

If no log cross small talus of north side. No camping on east and south sides of Ediza per Inyo NF. 98% of groups camp as close as they can to west shore. For seclusion with better views, less likely bear visits, site above and north of inlet stream at ~2875 meters.

rob >>>"Camping at Garnet. Can I get to the west end of the lake from the South side of the lake?"

No. South shoreline slope is steep, awkward. Instead north of topo point 3143, traverse west from JMT at 3080 meters then contour down to lake.

rob >>>"I would really like to try going over Garnet Pass to 1000 Island lake. Am I missing anything by going that way"

Sure the world class views of Banner/Ritter behind the lake are early morning from the TIL outlet and for 1/4 mile downstream. But hiking from sw Garnet camp, you would not pass by there early morning regardless. Better to camp at lonely west end of TIL and day hke at dawn/sunrise CCW around lake.
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Re: Ediza, Garnet, 1000 Island Questions

Post by oldranger »

I second almost everything markskor said except 1. there may be people at the s. end TIL as there was when I camped there. 2. you need to take his claim of a 6 lb bow with a grain of salt as the fish he catches or even the ones i catch tend to grow at least an inch a year in his telling.

So that also means that we disagree a bit with Dave's consideration of the s. shore of Garnet. I have just traversed the southern half of the shoreline and it was a piece of cake. Mark has done the full length.

If you have layover days the fishing is good for nice fish in both lakes and you can explore around to get great views when not fishing. Anytime of day the views are incredible. If you are interested in outstanding photos do as Dave suggests and situate yourself on the n. shores toward the outlets of both lakes early in the morning. I'm hoping to do the same area later in the season.
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Re: Ediza, Garnet, 1000 Island Questions

Post by Wandering Daisy »

If I understood your post, you are bringing your grandson. What kind of x-c difficulty is he able to do? How old is he? This may be a factor in answering some of your questions.
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Re: Ediza, Garnet, 1000 Island Questions

Post by robow8 »

Thanks for the replies so far everyone; they are much appreciated.
WD - Grandson will be 13 on the day we start. He's been going camping with his Scout troop, so I'm pretty sure he will be able to handle easy x-c.
OR - Your description of Markskor's fishing achievements made me laugh out loud!
Dave - I will keep your Ediza campsite in mind
Markskor - will you be working up at Tuolumne next summer? We may have to make a detour to see you and the sights of TM.
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Re: Ediza, Garnet, 1000 Island Questions

Post by markskor »

robow8 wrote: Sat Feb 23, 2019 8:29 pm Thanks for the replies so far everyone; they are much appreciated.

OR - Your description of Markskor's fishing achievements made me laugh out loud!

Markskor - will you be working up at Tuolumne next summer? We may have to make a detour to see you and the sights of TM.
Yes, the summer ahead will find me again behind the cash register at the TM store. Stop by and say hi.
And as to the OR's snide comments - Bite me! This is what happens when you get old and senile. I am used to it...hiked with him for 10 years...you really don't have to listen to him - I never do ...sigh!

BTW, I posted this story below on HST 13 years ago. BY OR's standards, that fish must be approaching 10 pounds by now.




The Trout Saga at Thousand Island Lake 1/01/2006

Where to begin…The JMT: the John Muir Trail, winds spectacularly through the California’s High Sierra - the entire route runs primarily north and south - mostly keeping to the highest and most spectacular wilderness our Sierra Nevada has to offer. Sure, there are mountain passes aplenty on this trail – tough ones too, but this well-maintained and long established trail just snakes itself along, preferring the higher altitudes whenever possible, always trying to keep itself exposed and, more times often than not, remaining above a polished granite timberline. The trailhead begins with official signage: auspicious, Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley, off the bus and across a crowded tourist bridge. The trail enfolds, starting low, paved, and crowded, and ends up high (all-too-soon unfortunately), atop the summit of Mount Whitney, a mere 211 distant miles away.

I have had the pleasure of hiking it in its entirety. The best part about this trail – well to be honest, there are many, many truly great aspects to this trail – (far too many to tell here), but one outstanding and truly unique characteristic of the JMT is that there are no roads built, yet, that bisect this trail - none at all. (Let us hope California – and Ah-nold our present governor – always keeps it this way.)

There are distinct topographical and geographic boundaries that allow logical divisions of the JMT into manageable legs – these legs suitably marked by convenient (and some not so convenient) access points. These favorable access points making it somewhat easy for any backpacker – novice to expert – to re-supply, to jump on and off the trail at their whim – taking as big or as little a bite of the trail as they comfortably can swallow in one stretch. The segment of the JMT that concerns this story is that ~ 27-mile stretch - that part that extends between Tuolumne Meadows and Red’s Meadows… probably one of the most scenic and (relatively) accessible but remote trail segments available to all in the entire world.

If you fellow anglers ever get the chance, (and more importantly, provided that you also have access to a good pair of boots, reliable backpacking gear, and something to fish with – very essential!), try this JMT segment yourselves. As Hunter S. Thompson said, “Buy the ticket and take the ride.” Some, those in an ultralight rush, they will argue that many could do this rather diminutive segment easily, in a relatively short period of time, maybe in as little as two or three days, provided the desire exists to push it hard. I say why hurry… anything this good… doing it too fast… relax and enjoy this best of all God’s creations. A week of premier Sierra scenery as well as opportunities galore for fantastic fishing awaits those who have the foresight, a bit of patience, and the allotted extra time available to do this segment right.

Logistically speaking, (there is conveniently), a local Yosemite bus system; its terminus right at the end of the trip, designed to one get back to the car – the YARTS line I believe. It originates in Yosemite National Park… the Valley, and returns daily from the parking lot of Mammoth - the main mountain, beside the Yodeler Restaurant/ main ski area. YARTS starts out (too) early morning in Yosemite Valley – boarding first near the Curry kiosk – then traversing along Highway 120, occasionally pausing, often trail-weary hikers flagging it down, dropping off and picking up hikers along the route. It pauses briefly in Tuolumne Meadows – at the store - carrying the daily mail and yesterday’s paper - then continuing onwards, meandering up, down, over, and through Tioga Pass before plunging down the hill towards Mono Lake and the town of Lee Vining. Reversing direction, this daily regularly scheduled bus, proceeds now southward, over Highway 395, past the June Lake loop, Deadman’s Summit, into the town of Mammoth Lakes …pulling right up to the ski area itself, ending up high on Mammoth Mountain. There, atop a ridge, in the big parking lot of Mammoth’s gondola, access awaits to yet another bus system, one that provides scheduled service down into the Devil’s Postpile/ Red’s Meadow area.

So backpackers, if you have some free week, take your ever-ready backpack, drive into Yosemite, leave the car safe in a designated long-term parking lot (by the Tuolumne Meadows wilderness permit shack), spend the first night nearby at the backpacker campground (no reservations needed), and in the morning, jump on the JMT. After backpacking a truly magic 27-mile-long trek, after all the fishing, after you finish playing and exploring, board a bus, and return to within 50 feet of your parked car – 6 or 7 days later. Get the picture? Now that I have set the stage, done the work for you, let us get on with this story.

Once again, I was on another solo backpacking trip, going north to south on this trip, hiking along that segment of the JMT that goes from Tuolumne Meadows to Red’s Meadows. (See how it all makes sense now?) The first part of the trail is relatively easy. You start out at ~8800 ft, in YNP, out of the bustle of Tuolumne Meadows, and travel southward, following the Lyell Canyon, up towards Donahue Pass. The first 7 - 8 miles of trail is relatively flat, travelling along a meadow next to a slow and meandering river, teeming with opportunities for trout. Soon enough though, at the base of the pass proper, the JMT rises and starts to make its climb out of this talus-covered, granite carved canyon. Your topographical map (essential to any serious backpacking) will show that you are going to climb 3000+ feet to get over the pass, but I say, never bust your ass all at once; camp instead half way up the hill. A nice stream crosses the trail at about the 10,000-foot level, and this makes a great site for your first night’s stay. All told, you have maybe walked about nine easy miles so far that day. (Confused yet? Maybe you should look at our TOPO - that way, this whole opus may read a bit easier.)

The next morning’s agenda consists of, after a hearty breakfast of beef jerky, cream of wheat, candy, and tang (mountain food)… breaking camp, packing up, easily making ones way up and over Donahue, and then continuing on down into the Rush Creek area. (God, this is indeed pretty country - sinful!) Here grey-streaked granite walls, intermittent conifer forests… add in a multitude of various lakes, waterfalls, and fast-moving streams, all available… nature alive splashed profusely throughout this impressive alpine arena. If you are so inclined, pick one lake or stream…any of the many available; trek meanderingly along one of those wildflower meadows close at hand, – (see the maps), make it a short hiking day and spend time fishing instead – camp anywhere that fancies you – I did. The fact remains that here, above 10,000 feet, there is an abundance of choices and a great variety of great trout-fishing opportunities close, especially early in the season… right after the snowmelt is best. Whatever immediate destination you decide on, eventually the JMT, will find itself, soon enough, at Thousand Island Lake, and that is where this story ultimately unfolds.

Thousand Island Lake…a large body of water by Sierra standards… orients itself relatively north to south along a trail that is now going, at least for these few miles, east to west. Here, the JMT just touches on the northern most part of the lake, and this immediate area, unfortunately too close and too accessible to the June Lake loop, has long been tragically overused throughout the years. In truth, present conditions on this side of the lake, camping wise, are not that nice, and may seemingly and initially, be disappointing to the first-time visitor. You see obvious evidence here – scars: of many old campsites, long-used, long abandoned... the lake exit, no trees left there, trash, soap scum, and generally various degrees of major trail erosion. Camping has even been restricted to the point where there are multitudes of posted signs here, blatantly stating, “No Camping Allowed within ¼ mile of this end of the lake.” So be it.

However, looking upwards, southward, you cannot help but ponder the awe, pleasantly humbled, overshadowed by the magnificence that is Mount Banner, located oh so close now, just at the far end of the lake - abruptly jutting upward – the sheer walls of a medieval ancient castle. Indeed, here is one of the more spectacular sights to behold in the entire Sierra Nevada. I abandoned the JMT and took the lightly worn path on the right side of the lake, heading toward the very far end over a mile away – closer to Banner. The faint trail enticed – not at all sure of what I would find, but remember observing immediately that there were indeed over 1000 islands scattered over the crystal-clear lake… right there in front of me.

At the far end, over at the left side (southeast), there discovered by chance, a hidden - protruding out - a small “almost” island – a peninsula. (You have to actually “almost” wade and pick your way through about 15 feet of one-foot deep water to get on it – not too tough going at all.) This island is in the shape of an inverted J. (See a topo map). On the far end of this J-shaped island is a large gravel area, flat with plenty of room for many tent sites, and the whole island conveniently juts out about 100 yards out into the deep-water channels of the lake itself. Home, immediately making my camp, then staked out my tent, set up my MSR kitchen, ate, and prepared to fish, intending to try all three sides of my island. Ever aware of the magnificent mountain just in front of me, and the clouds that danced and raced across the high monolithic walls, now at the water’s edge – my Eagle Claw 4-piece ready.

I am a spinner person, usually fishing fly-and-bubble morning and night, and dragging deep spinning spoons other times…generally using 4-pound line. On the island’s west side, casted out, waited a second or two, flipped the bale, and immediately got a hit (first cast too) - a fairly good-sized, wild, and healthy ‘bow, (using a 3/8 white Z-ray). After catching many more small ones there, then moved over a few steps, to the rocks off the north end of my now temporary island home, to the deepest part of the channel. Still dragging lures deep, the strikes continued, the fish cooperating nicely by hitting gold Panther Martins, red Mepps, Z-Rays - well, mostly anything that I had with me – all pre-loaded into my aluminum #69 Perrine case. No fish caught were that big - mostly in the 10 – 14 inch size – but they were all remarkably colorful, strong too, good fighters, and I was having great fun… then the rain came.

For those of you perhaps unfamiliar with the quirks and particulars of the High Sierra thunderstorm, let me enlighten you on some of their usual complexities. At noon, under calm winds, the sky can appear completely clear blue – nary a cloud visible on any horizon. Then, at about 2 o’clock, the sporadic winds start, and small clouds pop up, magically appearing, gathering, soon becoming thicker, darker, and blacker, and then, without noticing, they seem to race together, multiplying, and covering the entire sky. An hour later, the once azure blue turns ominous shades of black, and then, expectedly and predictably, the deluge begins. No respectable Sierra storm is complete without spectacular lightning strikes, fierce claps of thunder, and the big drops of high-altitude precipitation. These are the Sierra summer storms, they frequently move quickly, and one experienced can tell just how far away the storms are away by observing the flashes of lightning, and counting the seconds slowly until the roar of the resultant thunder; five-second durations equals approximately one mile.

While you are out in the high country backpacking, there is really nothing you can do when these sudden thunderstorms hit, especially when you find yourself stranded, on short notice, far above tree line. Your only real recourse is to crawl into the relative safety of a well-placed tent, hunker down into your sleeping bag, try to stay reasonably warm and dry, maybe take a quick nap, and pray that your number does not come up. Luckily, more often than not, these brief but violent storms only last an hour or so, and by evening time, the skies normally re-clear and spectacular sunsets are then the order of the day. This storm was a typical Sierra storm.

After many a Sierra tempest, you will frequently notice a recurring phenomenon. (If you have ever been up there, re-emerging after a Sierra storm, you know.) There is usually a brief but undefined period of intense freshness, accompanied by a period of unexplained but magical calm… when everything seems tranquil, still, but the air itself, for whatever reason, feels charged … much more alive. After this storms passing, around sunset, it was just such a magical time. The evening sky’s purples and magentas danced across the lake surface, an amalgamation - sparkling flecks – shimmering patterns of gold and silver mixing and dancing with the boils of now-rising trout. The water below… mirror-like, Mount Banner, reflecting… the air above - somehow, unexplainably but definitely, ionized.

It deserves mention here that during the storm-induced hiatus, I had purposefully changed my angling strategy, replacing existing lures with the fly-and-bubble technique, as now anticipated taking advantage of the evening’s rise. Finally, after the rain subsided – almost sundown, again ready; I trod over to third side, the beach, cast out to the east… into the rising boils, the mirrored Banner, the purple and crimson-red, electric calm…and… BANG!

Taut lines are one thing, but this was a leviathan - monstrous, jumping once and then once again, bigger and stronger than anything ever caught on any 4-pound monofilament. He set the hook, all by himself, and I replied, immediately easing up the drag dial on my Penn 420 SS ultra light. From then on, it was all you could do to just hang on and play. I reeled in, he ran, the rod bowed, and the drag sang. (Funny, can still remember looking around for someone to share this all with, but realized that I was alone – my choice … too bad. The best is now sharing it here with you here.) I do not know how long this dance lasted, seemed like a good 30 minutes at the time, though probably much shorter in reality… who knows. Finally, he gave up the fight, and slowly reeled him over to a small gravel cove, finally seeing this big ‘bow, up close, laid out before me in its entirety - cool. Well… it was not over yet. He took one long look at me, did this athletic tail-whip thing, and took off again, maybe a bit weaker this time, but obviously still game…Five minute later it was finished - finally.

Again, coaxing him in, grabbing him at the gills, and lifting him out of the water, trying to get some actual reference of how big he actually was – silver body, mottled spots, rainbow sheen, teeth and all… no camera – only something to remember. In my mind’s eye, can still remember measuring his body length against my leg, and him being longer than the top of my knee to the tip of my boot, and distinctly remember that could not reach around his widest part using both of my hands. I also realized that he was hurting… vulnerable; grabbing my hemostats, quickly unhooking the fly from his jaw, and slowly easing him back into his lake.

Thankfully, he swam… out slowly… away, and then, much to my great chagrin, he stopped, shuddered, and unsteadily rolled over… belly up, now floating, drifting ever farther into the watery distance – too deep now… unreachable. I subsequently grabbed my pole and tried repeatedly to cast over the top of him – maybe could snag him…tow him back. Then, after missing him over a dozen times or so, it happened… he twitched, and with a mighty flick of his tail, he again righted himself. One mighty swoosh later, disappearing… back into the blue-black confines of the Thousand Island Lake twilight. (If you ever see him again, say hi from me.)

I stayed there, on my own personal island, fishing, catching many more trout that night, and the next day too, some big, mostly small…all wild, but have never caught anything Sierra wild as big as that giant, ever again. Two days later, collecting my gear and my memories, continuing on, back and down the JMT, towards Agnew Meadow and the next re-supply point.

Another solo backpacking adventure by markskor
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oleander
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Re: Ediza, Garnet, 1000 Island Questions

Post by oleander »

Hi,

If you do a layover day at Lake Ediza, try to go visit Iceberg Lake. There is a well-trodden use trail to Iceberg from the southern end of Ediza.

On your last day, consider returning via the High Trail rather than the River Trail. The High Trail is a mile or two longer, but fabulously scenic!

- Oleander
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Re: Ediza, Garnet, 1000 Island Questions

Post by Wandering Daisy »

It has been years, but I recall not liking the south shore of Garnet Lake. Cannot remember why. There is a fair use-trail on the north shore. After crossing Garnet outlet on a bridge, go about 4/10 of a mile uphill gaining about 150 feet and there is a use-trail on the left. There is fair camping at the inlet and good fishing there. The large peninsula looked like it also had great camping; would be a great place to explore. I have camped mid-north shore on Thousand Island Lake. Early season the entire SW end is a swamp. The route line on the map below goes west of the series of lakes west of the NW shore. There is quite a bit of large talus on the Garnet Lake side of the pass between the two lakes.

At both of the lakes, if you camp mid-shore the view of the mountains is better than if you camp at the far western ends. Camping at the far eastern ends also makes for good scenery, but this is where lots of others camp so can be crowded.

The north shore of Thousand Island Lake has a fair trail. The map shows the route on the south side because I did it for fishing. Not the recommended route just to get to the other side.
Garnet Lake.JPG
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