Saddlebag Lake to Twin Lakes, 9/17-20

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Wandering Daisy
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Saddlebag Lake to Twin Lakes, 9/17-20

Post by Wandering Daisy »

My husband and I do an annual fall trailer trip on the east side of the Sierra. This time I took advantage of his offer to pick me up at an ending trailhead at the start of our trip. I wanted a route that I could simply walk into a dog-friendly campground where my husband would have plenty to do if I were a day late. Given a weather report of cool conditions, I wanted to camp at about 10,000 feet or lower. I also wanted a 4-5 day route so that my total time including the trailer trip was about 10 days. As usual, deciding which route to do was agonizing and I was still debating the route the night before I left! I planned to start the weekend of Sept 15, but delayed a few days to avoid the high winds forecast.

Although the forecast temperatures were accurate, I took too much clothing. On the contrary, it was quite warm hiking and I regretted taking my heavier hiking pants. It lightly frosted every night and I was toasty in my 10-degree bag. I did not buy a California fishing license this year so with no fishing to entertain myself, I instead hiked longer days. The four-day trip was 40 miles with 8,600 feet gain and 10,830 feet loss. Other than too much darkness and tent time, the trip was very enjoyable and scenic. Although rigorous, it was low-stress being mostly on trails and places I had been before.
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Sept 17. Saddlebag Lake TH to Upper McCabe Lake, plus drive (5.4 mi, 5.2 hr, +1520 ft/-1130 ft)

I left the Saddlebag Lake TH at 11:15, with my permit stating I would camp at Cascade Lake, but hopefully I would be able to make it to Upper McCabe Lake. Fourth July weekend in 2002 I lead a CMC trip camping at Upper McCabe Lake and climbing on Shepherd Crest. The lake was beautiful; the mosquitoes were some of the worst I had ever seen! Hopefully, this time I could get the stunning scenery without the bugs.
First I continued on a use-trail up to Conness Lakes and took some photos.
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Several fishermen and day-hikers were on the trail. Then I traversed the east arm of North Peak and dropped into Cascade Lake. It was still early so I decided to continue. I could always stop at the unnamed lake at 10,880 if needed. I was surprised to see a good use-trail to this little lake, where I stopped for a break. I heard voices and saw two people coming down from the “pass” to Upper McCabe Lake, on a route farther north than I had taken in 2002. I ascended the ridge farther south finding a faint use-trail with a few cairns. Other than a few times where I had to scramble using my hands, it was an easier route than I had previously taken, reaching the top at 3:30.
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One then has to walk the top of the ridge north to the actual “pass” before descending a trail that drops down the west side. The “trail” starts down a gully of reasonable steepness, then precipitously drops adjacent to a rock wall, after which the slope eases and everyone (or every deer) goes a different direction. The early season bog below was now dry enough to walk across at about any location. Shepherd Crest glowed in the late afternoon light. I traversed to the outlet, staying about 50 feet above the north shoreline. In retrospect, I could have stayed closer to the shores.

Across the outlet I found a campsite with wind protection. It was 4:30 and the sun was already low on the horizon. After setting up I walked around taking photos, climbing the little hill to the north and peeked down into the McCabe Creek valley far below. It was brush choked and already deep into shadows. I was glad I had not chosen that route! Shadows fell on my site before 7PM and it immediately became very chilly so I went into the tent. Although it lightly frosted at night, there was little wind and I was toasty warm.
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Re: Saddlebag Lake to Twin Lakes, 9/17-20

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Sept 18. U. McCabe Lk to Upper Matterhorn Creek Basin (16 mi, 9 hr, +3120 ft/-3600 ft)


Unlike the evening, the morning was plagued by lingering shadows. Having gone to sleep so early, I awoke a bit before 6AM. I normally do not cook in the vestibule of my tent; this time I did. Sun finally hit my site just as I was leaving at 7:50.
I had never been from Upper McCabe Lake to the PCT, with the section to Lower McCabe Lake the only significant off-trail section of my entire route. To avoid getting too low into the thick forest and becoming disoriented, I first went to Lake 10232. I descended the drainage to Lower McCabe Lake, first on the south side, was then forced by brush to the north where I entered the thick forest and was a bit confused at times before I reached the outlet at about 9AM. A group was camped here at one of the many established campsites and where a large well maintained trail began.
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Once on the major trails, the entire walk to Matterhorn Canyon was easy and fast, although it is a rollercoaster. The trail follows McCabe Creek before turning west to intersect the PCT, where it then drops 700 feet with many switchbacks through a beautiful shady old growth forest to Return Creek. Rounding the ridge to reach Spiller Creek was at first hot and dry. The trail then follows Spiller Creek with its many rock slab “slides: and little pools of clear water. The 1,030-foot climb to Miller Lake also goes through some thick old forests before continuing along a bench at about 9,400 feet that contains many meadows, ponds and small lakes. I ate lunch at Miller Lake. The 1,160-foot drop to Matterhorn Creek was also mostly in thick forest with occasional views of the northwest cliffs of Matterhorn Canyon. I met two backpackers who looked like PCT hikers as I neared the creek.

As I descended to Matterhorn Creek I debated continuing up the canyon or camping at the trail junction. I was not keen on getting into shadows early, so decided to continue. From this point on, it was one step at a time to see how far I would go. If I found a perfect campsite I would stop; otherwise I would go until I ran out of energy. I found several nice campsites along the way, but being deep in a canyon with all the shadows did not appeal to me. Unfortunately impressive Quarry Peak was in afternoon shadows so I could not get a good photo. It now became a race between me and the descending shadows!
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I barely stopped as I trudged 1,400 feet up the canyon with its gentle but never ending ascent. Once north of Quarry Peak the upper basin looked SO close, but was SO far away! I was definitely beat by the time I found a great campsite but luckily, even though 5PM, I had enough sunlight to take a bath and wash a shirt. A large 5-point buck was munching on grass and quickly left when I walked up to the sheltered bench where I set up my tent. I was very glad I had made it to the upper basin. I had camped in this basin in 2008 and knew it was at its prime for photography in the late afternoon at sunset.
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As shadows descend, I bundled up and started to cook dinner, and to my shock, realized that I accidently left my spoon on a rock at Upper McCabe Lake. I ended up slurping dinner from the pot and scooping up what I could with my bear-can opener. Watching the glowing west cliffs of Whorl Mountain kept up my sprits in spite of the added difficulties of eating dinner. After such a long day I was so happy to get into my snug bed, listen to music and rest my weary feet.
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Re: Saddlebag Lake to Twin Lakes, 9/17-20

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Sept 19. U. Matterhorn Creek to Snow Lk junction plus day-hike (9 mi, 8 hr, +3095 ft/-2865 ft)


Given the long previous day, I slept in and did not leave until 9:30AM. Instead of heading directly back to the trail, I walked up the drainage in the upper basin and then cut over to Burro Pass, never intersecting the trail. There are many nice camping spots in this entire upper basin. I ended up going over the wrong “pass”, but a use-trail indicated that I was not the only one to do this! I found the maintained trail as I dropped into the next drainage north, which parallels beautiful Sawtooth Ridge.
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Previously I had camped at the unnamed lake north of Finger Peaks. Any part of this upper valley, adjacent to Sawtooth Ridge, would provide very scenic camping, however, the lower part as you near Piute Creek is full of deadfall. I spotted some large tents, which I found out later were for a trail crew. I had thought of walking down Slide Canyon, but decided instead to day-hike to Ice and Maltby Lakes.
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Initially, I was going to set up camp near the trail on the upper bench, and then day-hike. I ended up carrying my pack hoping to find a more scenic campsite farther up. Unfortunately the upper bench was bone dry. I found a gully that dropped to the shores of Ice Lakes where a permanent snowbank gives the lake its name. This site would be far too shady.
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Then I found another chute that dropped to Maltby Lake, but did not go all the way down since the lower part was a real bushwhack. On the way back I did run across a small pond, but the water was of poor quality.
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I returned to the trail and decided to go over Mule Pass since I had time. Shortly I met the trail crew: the continuing trail was, obviously, in great shape. I thought of camping at the unnamed lake just below Mule Pass on the north side, but it was choked with krumholtz. I dropped to the trail junction where at 4:30 the sun still shone through a well-located gap provided by Rock Island Pass! Someone was setting up in my intended campsite, so I crossed the creek and found a wonderful site on the north shores of a little unnamed pond. I had sufficient daylight to take a bath and dry my sweaty clothing. There were fish in this little pond, and I regretted not fishing. My campsite also had a great view down to Crown Lake, which fell into shadows much earlier.
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Re: Saddlebag Lake to Twin Lakes, 9/17-20

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Sept 20. Snow Lk/Mule Pass jct. to Twin Lakes TH, plus day-hike (9.3 mi, 6.3 hr, +870 ft/-3235 ft)


Although my campsite had late afternoon sun, it was one of the last locations to get the morning sun. It really did not matter because I did not need an early start. My husband was not going to be at the Twin Lakes campground until about 4PM anyway. I finally got sunshine and was on the trail at 9:45 AM. At the Peeler Lake junction I dropped my pack and took a quick day-hike up to Peeler Lake.
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Back at my pack I ate lunch and then started down the trail to Barney Lake. I went purposely slower, which was fine with my sore feet anyway. There were many people at Barney Lake. A ranger was checking a group that did not have a permit, or a bear can (they were going to go into Yosemite). He did not cite them, but gave them the “ranger talk” and told them they could be cited for no bear can by a ranger in Yosemite. He looked at my permit and we chatted a while. The last miles down the trail to Twin Lakes was full of day-hikers and a number of backpackers as well.

The commercial campground at the trailhead is HUGE! I went to the entry kiosk to find out if my husband had arrived. He had but when I got to the trailer he was gone and it was locked. I shortly found him and our dog on a grassy spot next to dock on the lake. The dog had just gone swimming and was soaking wet, so I got a wet hug and dog kiss.


Trailer Trip

Here are a few photos from our subsequent trip. After leaving Twin Lakes, we camped two nights at Four Jeffrey Campground near South Lake. We fished at Sabrina Lake and I hiked the Chocolate Lakes loop. Then we spent a night at East Fork Campground on Rock Creek and walked up the trail to fish at Mack Lake. Fishing was a bust but our dog loved the swimming! Then we moved to Lower Lee Vining Campground, drove up to Saddlebag Lake to get my car, and walked around Tioga Lake. I drove back home through Yosemite and my husband went back via 395 and Tahoe since he did not want to haul the trailer through Yosemite and on windy narrow Highway 49.
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0425-26_Chocolate Lakes_edited-1.jpg
0434-36_Rawah Lake.jpg
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Re: Saddlebag Lake to Twin Lakes, 9/17-20

Post by balzaccom »

Nice report! I sure recognize that shot of Chocolate Lake--as we were there about ten days ago on the way from Ruwau Lake.
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Re: Saddlebag Lake to Twin Lakes, 9/17-20

Post by gary c. »

Always love your trip report and pictures. Sounds like this one turned out to be the right choice for a late season trek and trailer trip.
"On this proud and beautiful mountain we have lived hours of fraternal, warm and exalting nobility. Here for a few days we have ceased to be slaves and have really been men. It is hard to return to servitude."
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Re: Saddlebag Lake to Twin Lakes, 9/17-20

Post by oldhikerQ »

Thanks for the trip report and great photos WD.
Really like you photo of Matterhorn Canyon; one of my favorite spots in the Sierra.
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I — I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.
Robert Frost
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