Last of the season - a trip report

[markskor]

Since it is a bit slow here, thought I would entertain the forum/ bore you with our final backpacking trip of the 2017 season - another great fishing trip through northern Yosemite.

Working at the Tuolumne store after Labor Day still, the hiking crowds there had dwindled - maybe schools being open was the cause. Anyway, on a rare day off - September 7th, drove down to Lee Vining for groceries and cigs (no tobacco products sold at the TM store), and happened to call up my long-time hiking companion Mike...just to see what was going on. His first words, "You ready?" It seems that he had made plans for us, another grand adventure, and had emailed me the itinerary a month earlier...but since there was no phone/ wifi service up in the Meadows all summer, I did not receive any prior notice from my good friend - the OldRanger.

"We are leaving on the 11th...three days from now...you packed up yet?" All I really had to ask him was - "How many days?" as have done many past trips with the old goat before...his reply - "14". Immediately, turning the Jeep tires towards Mammoth Lakes, made a quick stop at Von's...Beef Jerky, Pop Tarts, etc. FYI, Mike does all the dinner planning and buying (I just repay him my share), and then am only responsible for my own breakfasts and lunches. Back in TM soon enough, I gave my end of season notice...the 10th was to be my season's last shift at the TM store.

On the 11th, met up with him at Ken's Sporting Goods in Bridgeport (got a fresh re-spool) and proceeded to follow him up to Twin Lakes where we dropped off my car. BTW, they charge you $10 a week for a safe (and dry?) place to park up there...$20.

Next morning, at dawn, drove up to the Virginia Lakes Pack Station (left Mike's car here), where the plan was to be "spot packed" in - a good 10 miles on horseback/mule and then dropped off somewhere with our full packs to begin the hiking part of this trip. (My share was $300 + tip for the spot pack.) Mike and the drover rode horses, (Mike looking a little like Lil Joe in Bonanza)...and both our backpacks were strapped to a mule. They gave me this giant mule - "Beau" to ride up on...sure footed yes but slow as dirt...both the drover and Mike having to wait patiently every half mile or so for Beau to catch up. "Kick him...Show him who is boss!" was the drover's suggestion. I honestly tried but after a few failed but painful attempts, old Beau just turned his head around and looked me square in the eye...(gave me the Ol' Stinkeye)...turns out Beau was the one in charge... I left him alone the rest of the trip. 6+ hours later, not as far as wanted, but after passing 4 lakes, (Summit last) my butt now sore, we were finally able to get off the stock to began the hike in Virginia Canyon. (See a Yosemite TOPO to follow along!)

First stop was Cigar Lake (un-named on the Yosemite TOPO but just E of Miller Lake) where Brooks and 'Bows awaited us...also a half hour hail storm...good times!

Two more days later (up Wilson Canyon) and easy x-country, we arrived at Tahlulah Lake - our home for the next few nights. The fishing there was slow but eventful - only caught 4 fish - all Cuts... but two were of note - a 18" and a 21"...the fat 18" was our dinner that night.

Next, more x-country travel eventually leading us down, skirting Sister Lake, to meet up with the trail again just above Smedberg. But as both of us had been there previously, we just kept on walking... up to Rodgers for the next few nights. Being late in the season, the fish there were hungry...interesting that most strikes gotten (30+ that day) were all in quite shallow water, and maybe 10 feet from the shoreline...bugs? BTW, Rodgers holds a zillion cookie cutter 'Bows - all in the 10 - 14 inch range. I was throwing a silver 3/8 Z-Ray lure and the hits just kept on coming.

Two days passed, packs on again, we followed the trail down to Benson Lake. FYI, both of us carried one-man rafts (myself, a Klymit LWD with an Alpaka kayak paddle) and because the shore line here is mostly inaccessible, the major plan for this trip had been to raft-fish the backside of the giant lake...previously unexplored. However, on that first night there, the first snow storm of the season arrived - 12" of fresh snow fell...(more again the next night too)...20º at sunset...(we were thus destined to be stuck here for a few days...and we were still 20+ miles away from the car.) As both of us are experienced, have great/proven gear... we did not panic - just hunkered down for 4 days, waiting for the snow to melt off - BTW, It didn't. We never did get to use our rafts as the high winds, the bitter cold, and common sense made us reconsider that idea. We did catch lots of 'Bows from the winter shoreline...good dinners too but as the snow lingered...a lot of tent time was had just trying to stay /staying warm. Thank God for my WM Badger.

Over Seavey Pass, through Kerrick Meadows...two days more put us at Peeler Lake, where it turns out it was even colder still. Through a blanket of white, icy trails and sleet were the norm going down. My boots got me to Twin lakes early that afternoon and found my car, once parked dry now surrounded by a frozen pond. Mike arrived down maybe an hour later. We drove back to get his car at the pack station and were met by the same drover that had dropped us off initially a few weeks before (now getting ready to close the pack station for the season) who was amazed that we lasted out all the intended trip... with big smiles. Just to add - He mentioned that he had checked at the Sheriff station that morning to see if there was any news about us, as we were one day overdue.
All in all, maybe a bit colder than expected but a great fishing trip none-the-less. Bottom line - 15 days (one more than planned) - great gear usage, and as usual w/ Mike - fishing.

[Wandering Daisy]

any photos?

[markskor]

Mike has the photos...stay tuned.

[oldranger]

Before adding the pics I should comment that my memory is different than marks considering a couple of details. 1- Most of the fish out of Tallulah appeared to be rainbows. I believe that one or 2 fish had orange slashes like cutts but were otherwise colored like rainbows. 2- It snowed the second night at Benson not the first. 3-The fishing was not as good as mark made it out to be (which accounts for not a single fish pic).

On the other hand it was the longest period of cold and wind I have ever experienced on a September trip. I have experienced colder conditions for a couple of days but never for so long. Non the less it was good to be in the backcountry. Since the entire trip was below treeline and it appeared that the weather would be unsettled during the trip we decided to take my ultralight 10x12 tarp on the trip. We set it up all but 3 nights on the trip.

Also there was one notable reunion during the trip. On day 2 as Mark and I headed up the switchbacks out of Spiller Canyon we met a man and woman heading down. Almost simultaneously the woman asked,"Mike?" as I asked, "Lo?" The woman was Lo Lyness, former NPS Backcountry Ranger. We had not seen each other in 27 years--the last year I was a backcountry ranger. We then sat in the trail and spent 45 minutes, not so much catching up but talking about trips we want to take in the Sierra. Last year when visiting my old ranger station at Roaring River, I was reunited with Rob Hayden, another former backcountry Ranger. Someone from "the old days" always turns upon trips into Roaring River!

The pics:

P1030092.jpg

P1030095.jpg

P1030096.jpg

P1030098.jpg

P1030102.jpg

P1030104.jpg

P1030137.jpg

P1030149.jpg

P1030159.jpg

P1030171.jpg

P1030172.jpg

P1030176.jpg

more to come

[oldranger]

P1030183.jpg

P1030188.jpg

P1030196.jpg

P1030200.jpg

P1030209.jpg

P1030216.jpg

1marks tent.jpg

P1030231.jpg

P1030237.jpg

P1030246.jpg

P1030248.jpg

Thats all Folks!

[oldhikerQ]

Thanks for the TR and photos. I'm jealous.
I've always been partial to that part of the Sierra, probably because the family car camped at Virginia Lakes for a week each summer when I was a kid.

[maverick]

Unique shot of Benson's, sandy, Riviera type beach.
No mention of Doe Lake, thought that was the lake to visit in that area for fishing? Really like those small lakes at Seavey Pass, the trail over the pass, can be an explosion of colors from the wildflowers, earlier in the year.

[oldranger]

Been to Doe Lake, my experience and the experience of others of my ilk is that the chance of catching a lunker is low. Nice 10-12 inch fish but nothing remarkable. Until everything got covered up with snow I was amazed at how green the various grasses in the meadows were. I guess the late melting pushed thing to stay green longer.

[gary c.]

Your pictures and report were great but that does sound like a long time in the cold.

[Mike M.]

Now that's what I call a great trip report! Short days and snow make for lots of tent time, no doubt.

Mike