Taboose-Amphitheater-Dumbbell Loop (advice?)

[EpicSteve]

I hope all of you have been having a GREAT summer! I know there are TR threads (including a very useful one from Wandering Daisy) regarding this route, but I still have a few questions. First things first:

I'm Level 4, Class 3 and I love going off trail at high altitude. However, I'm very picky about which routes I'm willing to do, as I'm not a big fan of very loose rock on steep terrain. Settled talus? No problem. Stacked boulders with a few loose ones? I'm okay. Take a step and scree moves 40 feet above me? No thanks!

Here's my planned itinerary for September 3rd - 9th, except I'm thinking of doing it in reverse (clockwise) now:

1. Taboose Pass TH to PCT
2. North on PCT to “Upper Basin” (of South Fork Kings River)
3. Amphitheater Pass (aka Cataract Pass)
4. From south shore of Lake 11,309’ (3447 meters) in upper Amphitheater Lake basin… head south, then SW, over unnamed pass (location of pass: 37-00-11.7N, 118-29-56.7W or 37.0099895, -118.496239) and descend WNW to the easternmost of the Dumbbell Lakes (Lake 11,410’)?
5. Dumbbell Lakes Pass (aka “Dumbbell Pass” or “Sheep Pass”)
6. Lake Basin
7. Cartridge Pass
8. East along South Fork Kings River to PCT
9. PCT to Taboose Pass TH

Does anyone have thoughts on number 4? It actually looks better to me on the topo than the pass between the SW shore of Amphitheater Lake and Dumbell Lakes Basin (plus I've heard stories about the latter, involving a tricky cornice at the top). But we all know that a topo only tells part of the story.

Any thoughts on whether I should bring ice axe, microspikes and tent snow stakes? I've been reading recent TRs for other areas nearby at similar elevations, but I still don't feel like I have a really good read on just how much snow to expect. I'd like to save the weight, but I'd hate to scrap the route due to lack of equipment.

Any thoughts on clockwise vs. counterclockwise? Any recent info regarding road and trail conditions?

Thanks!

Steve

[roland]

Hi Steve,

I'm doing pretty much that exact route 8/29-9/2. Taboose->CP->DLP->CCP->UBC (upper basin crossing)->Taboose.

With regard to #4, I looked it up on caltopo but I have no info on it. I believe the more traditional entry to Upper Basin is achieved through upper basin crossing.

I too am worried about the snow levels. However, I've studied the routes across all the passes, both using grade maps and photos from hst. It looks like there will always be a rocky alternative (e.g. on CCP) path up/down therefore no appreciable travel on steep snow. This is just a guess however. I'm not bringing any special equipment, though I will have trekking poles. I'm definitely prepared to abort if snow/terrain is prohibitively risky. I'm not so much worried about the steepness, mainly the exposure.

I'm going clockwise, I like going up the hard side of a pass which means down DBP, and up both CCP and UBC.

It's pretty late in the season, I think snow levels pretty much asymptote out to a fixed maximum level...of course another guess. South fork of kings is crossable now and rangers mention Taboose creek is knee deep and swift but manageable.

Apparently the road up to Taboose TH is torn up and requires at min a high clearance 2wd vehicle.

[maverick]

Steve,

Would stick with Cataract Pass, the cliff band that runs from Amph Lake to Lake 11309 is mostly a straight face, even the narrow section you are proposing to cross looks like steep, with some class 3 sections flanking it, with a snowbank/glacier south of it, and the way pass is situated it may still be holding quite a bit of snow this season.

Cornice could still be present, how big is the question, but you may be able to by-pass it, by climbing north, up the shoulder of OP, would rather rather do this as an ascent than a descent, plus I would rather be turned back at Amp Lake, then being all the way in at DBL and have to turn around, so doing this trip clock-wise would be my pick.

You mention not liking loose and tedious passes, DBP northern side is just that, so keep that in mind too.

Make sure you get an early start on day 1 to beat the heat.

[maverick]

With regard to #4, I looked it up on caltopo but I have no info on it. I believe the more traditional entry to Upper Basin is achieved through upper basin crossing.

Hi Roland,

The OP is referring to un-named pass crossing from Amp Basin into DBL Basin, not Upper Basin into Amph Basin.

[maverick]

I'm going clockwise, I like going up the hard side of a pass which means down DBP, and up both CCP and UBC.

Roland,

Yes, ascending CCP, DBP is the right call, but please keep in mind, that on UBC, the western side of the pass is the crux, especially the ramp near the top, keep the ascent of Cataract Creek into Amph Basin open as an option.

[EpicSteve]

Thanks Roland & Maverick. I appreciate your thoughtful responses. Sorry I didn't remember the name of Cataract Creek Pass in my original post. Been really busy and didn't have time to re-read related threads until this morning. (I was planning to do this route last year, but I didn't get my act together to reserve a permit. So I ended up getting a walk-up permit for Sawmill Pass and hiked over Pinchot to near Bench Lake.)

I knew the unnamed pass I'm proposing into the Amphitheater drainage was a bit of a long shot (especially since I've never seen any info on it whatsoever), but I was debating whether it was worth heading up and taking a look. My partner does not have experience with ice axe, so we will not be bringing them. I was just trying to get a read on whether the whole route choice might be a mistake. But he's experienced at XC hiking and has fewer qualms than me about steep loose slopes. It's not the tedium that I mind - it's the fear I experience when it feels like the whole slope could go and I'd be riding a landslide to my own destruction. I'm very confident in my navigation skills and sure-footedness, but there's a point where the terrain is so loose and steep that you don't have much control and I really hate that. Nonetheless, some routes are worth a fair degree of risk IMHO and I've done it. I just don't enjoy it.

[cgundersen]

Hi Steve,
I just got back (Saturday the 26th) from a trip that included much of your route, so I can give you some first-hand info: my buddy and I were aiming to reach Amphitheater basin via Fair Trade pass (which is the ridge northwest of Mather Pass). We got up to about 100 ft from the top and aborted (we just could not see a route that looked tenable for the weight we were carrying). Instead, we went over Mather Pass and camped below Upper Basin crossing (UBC) and did that hop the next morning. In spite of the light rain that was falling as we went over UBC, it went smoothly (well, wet butts, but no big deal). We took a close look at the route you were planning to do, and I'm guessing that it might work, but because Cataract col is such a (relative) snooze, we took the easier route (with the proviso that we were aiming to head north rather than south, once we hit Dumbbell basin). Thus, if you opt to head into Amphitheater basin via UBC (as opposed to going over Mather and then up Cataract creek), you'll be in a good position to give that route a peek and decide whether you want to try it. Interestingly, it looked to us that the crux segment was about halfway up where a solid snow-apron blocked entry to the main chute. The angle on that apron looked dicey, and since we had neither axes nor crampons, it was a no-go. By the same token, Cataract col was easy. Much of the climb is still snow-coated and the usual transition to dirt-rock climbing up the final segment is wide open. From what we could tell, there had been little or no activity over Cataract col this summer. At the same time Dumbbell Pass (DP) was still very full of snow. But, there is nothing too daunting about DP, and as long as you wait for things to warm up in the morning, snow conditions will be fine; in fact, they were great throughout our trip. My buddy was the cameraman, so I won't have photos till he posts them, but if you want any more insights about Amph/Dumbbell basins, let me know. Cameron
PS. We crossed Palisade creek about a mile up from its intersection with the middle fork of the Kings river, so I'm guessing that you should be able to cross by Deer meadow.

[EpicSteve]

That was really great information, cgundersen! Thank you so much for taking the time to share all of that. Sounds like we should scrap the attempt to cross the unnamed pass, since my buddy isn't an ice axe guy. It's very reassuring that you had such a straightforward ascent of Cataract Creek Pass ("Cataract Col" - same thing, right?) I've read in a couple of other threads that Dumbbell Pass is significantly easier when it's full of snow and that it generally doesn't require an ice axe, as long as the snow is soft, so I guess we'll be okay there too.

I'm still leaning toward heading north over Cartridge and Cataract Creek Passes, rather than south from Amphitheater. Primarily because I'll have a better idea by that time whether or not we have time to descend Cataract Creek to the JMT and head south via Palisade Lakes, or whether we should use the UBC as a shortcut. I figured all along that backtracking was an option if worse came to worse, but it sounds like Cataract Creek Pass is a lot less scary than I had feared. Thanks again for all the info, guys!

[cgundersen]

Hi Steve,
Yes, my nomenclature is a bit imprecise: Cataract Creek Pass (CCP) and Cataract col are one in the same (of course, it's not really a col, so I'm dead wrong there). There is ample snow at the top of CCP, but if you poke around on the North side, you'll readily discover the way down. And, I think you're pretty much correct that Dumbbell Pass will be easier with all the snow still coating the talus. The hillside up on the Marion Lakes side is generally a nice wide gravel slog and then the snow will expedite things. But, you still have to get around the main Dumbbell Lake and I've always found that to be a grind regardless of which way I've tried circling the lake. Regardless, it's gorgeous up there! Cameron

[EpicSteve]

Thanks again, Cameron. I really appreciate your thoughts on this. I like to have a certain amount of unknowns/adventure, but I also like to avoid any aborted routes due to more dangerous terrain than my partner and I are willing to take on. Sounds like this will be about perfect for us. We're leaving tonight after work - can't wait!!!