Thursday hopped out of work, picked up my friend, and rush out of LA to Grays Meadow playing a bit of hooky from work on Friday. Grays Meadow was great. Nice little campground. It was mostly empty. Site 33 was close to the creek running nearby making sleeping quite peaceful. We had total privacy setting up camp just as it fell dark. Learned Onion Valley CG had opened, but not worth relocating.
Friday, raced to Lone Pine arriving 20 minutes before opening; 3rd in line, but 1st for no-change permit reservations. Lines form early! The ranger made us choose our route with some firmness – north and over Glen Pass or South on JMT; we chose South on JMT to Center Basin/ Golden Bear Lake to avoid any Glen Pass snow. Got our permit and raced back to hit Onion Valley trail shortly after 9.
Climb is old hat for number of you, but was glorious for 2 of us. Beautiful cloudless blue skies. We pushed as fast as our non-acclimated bodies could go. Took us around 4 ½ hours with some lingering stops. Snow - only 2 patches that were short and super easy. Amazing views.
Kearsarge Lakes area was definitely a 2 for mosquitoes much of day. We dropped into Lower Vidette Meadow mid afternoon and was pushing a 3. At this point, my buddy was indicating he was tired. Center Basin was no longer in the cards. He didn't want to push ~2-3 more miles. I didn't want to stick it out in Lower Vidette Meadow with all the mosquitoes so we compromised on shorter hike to bear locker sites just below 10K elevation; more like Upper? Vidette Meadow. We found 2 nice and private camp spots hidden from JMT, but only 100 yards or so from bear locker; they also caught some breeze keeping mosquitoes down to only a 2… definitely were a 3 (or 4?) when heading to the creek for water.
I must admit, I had a different perception of Vidette Meadow in my head than in reality. Far less open than anticipated; less beautiful. But the drop in looking out on the Kearsarge Pinnacles and Vidette Spurs, etc were spectacular. Disappointed not to make it to Golden Bear Lake, but realized we made the correct call. We could have pushed on, but would have had us arriving as sun was setting and our bones were tired. Sadly, when we got to our campsite, the ring near our tents was still warm from prior use so we tossed some water and dirt to extinguish it and then made friends w/ some JMT'ers nearby for a few minutes by their fire. Nearly 10 mile day, we settled in for the night.
The hike to the campsite, which was just below 10K elevation had us cross 2 paths of a creek rushing into Bubbs. In the afternoon out, we took off boots and used water shoes. In the morning, my buddy was able to jump around with lower water running so he could avoid the water or removing boots. I resorted back to water shoes to avoid getting boots wet, plus my short legs / body jumping sometime has its risks. It was low running compared to most area waterways, but no need to take risks. YMMV.
We took easy morning next day not waking til after 8 and not moving til after 10. We both needed rest. Bummed we missed Center Basin, but we recalibrated and set off to explore Charlotte Lake instead. Hike up and out of Vidette Meadow was definitely a slog, but beautiful day once again. Ran into a really nice Park Ranger who – Michael Spayer – who seemed eager to inform us he will be the new long-term ranger at Charlotte Lake. He gave us his bear speech and we moved along.
Trail signs splitting b/w Raes and Charlotte Lake still largely submerged under melt. Hike down to Charlotte had me spook a deer grazing thus providing ample close up photos. Gorgeous lunch in the tent sites just before lake's ranger station. Buddy and I both said, we will be back. Wish we had more time to just sit there and read a book for hours. So peaceful.
Afternoon trekked up and ambling back past Bullfrog Lake where greater breeze reduced the mosquitoes. Gorgeous spot for a late afternoon rest. Trekking onward, I was enamored by the tons of tree fall in the area; all trees pointed away from mountains towards the streams rushing into Bullfrog Lake – clearly snow melt took a few casualties.
Kearsarge Lakes was beautiful; as expected. We took spot overlooking first lake so we could quickly exit next morning and race back home to LA. It was a huge area with lots of tent spaces; we feared likelihood of camp neighbors, but fortunately, the 3-4 other campers in the area all found separate spots and kept us all nice and private. Enjoyed evening dinner watching marmots, grazing deer down in the meadow/stream, listening to waterfalls, and watching the TONS of trout jumping the water. Mosquitoes about a 2.
That night both of us tossed turned unable to get proper sleep at nearly 11K feet. But we were treated to late night coyote? wolf? who cried out– loud, forceful shreak – a few times screaming for help, sort of as a directive. After a minute or so, finally heard a response. It was a quieter, more shrill voice. Almost like a mom was trying to direct a lost child through the night. Spectacular noises that bounced off the lakes and canyon walls.
And then around 330 am… a VERY heavy footed hiker with a loud sniffing problem and metal jingle, sorta like a collar, came looking for a campsite. He? Or She? lingered for what felt like an eternity, but maybe was just half minute or so before moving on in search of a different camp spot. I was quite happy not to meet the potential new neighbor…. Never in my life have I heard such heavy panting or heavy footed hiking…. I did spot a footprint next morning with 3 unique toe nails… strangely only observed the one.
Next day we woke and on trail by 730 joining Sunday rush hour to get back to civilization.
Nearly an hour to take the pass, quick rest, and another 2 hours until off the mountain. Quick Wet Ones shower in the parking lot, bite in Lone Pine and back in LA in time for dinner and bedtime with the kiddos…
Amazing country.
Key takeaways:
Yes, in the Sierras, you really can hike with just 1-2 liters water filled at all times… say goodbye to my typical water weight.
Out and Back trips have their own splendor and definitely do see things differently coming/going.
My new Nemo Hornet 1P tent is great – until rain fly zipper broke last night. Warranty?
Glen Pass was feasible based on all trail reports; another time
Sierras are just stunning
TR: Kearsarge, Charlotte L, Vidette 7/28-7/30
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sambieni
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TR: Kearsarge, Charlotte L, Vidette 7/28-7/30
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