Trip Report: Over Piute Pass to Humphrey's Basin

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Harlen
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Trip Report: Over Piute Pass to Humphrey's Basin

Post by Harlen »

Lizzie, Wolfie, Bear, and I just returned from 4 days, 3 nights in H.Basin, where we ski-toured, climbed around, and enjoyed the wildlife and time with our dogs.
Our gear is seen in the first photo below. We chose a lighter ski setup, (following Paul's advice) but ignored the advice of rlown, and brought the sled AKA- "pulk." (However, we did eschew the dog's Irish Cream, as per Russ' directive.).

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I included my climbing boots- while L's NNNBC boots served her well enough on mts.

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Lizzie and the dogs under Piute Crags.

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Bringing the pulk was a "wash" really, as I used it from the upper end of Loch Leven, which is 2.5 miles in, and had mostly snow from there on for the last 2.3 miles to the pass. Before that, I just bounced it behind me empty, which was no extra effort, but made me look and sound strange going up the trail. We only saw two other couples, and I was able to blame the presence of the empty pulk on my wife, who I said required that I bring it in case she tired.

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Mt. Muriel just beyond Piute Pass, M. Lake, and all others still frozen- fishing? Bring an auger- WTH?

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The long saddle in the center of the frame is Puppet Pass, with first Mt. Merriam, then Royce to the left. We hiked up the Peak 12,228- the one just right of the pass.

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Bear and Wolfie on the hike up under Alpine Col., which is right/SW of Mt. Muriel- the mountain left of center in this photo.
Note: the dogs, paws and all (sans booties) did great. Our little 14 pound, "Mountain Pomeranian" is super fit, and kept up easily on the 5+ miles up and in, and during the icy, early morning mountaineering bit.

The real reason I chose to take the pulk was due to our plan to ski from Piute Pass all the way to a camp by Desolation Lake, and for the travel from the pass to that lake and back, the pulk would have been a great help to us. Also, I knew that I could drag some weight back down from the pass on the way out, which I did, through dirt and rock and all. (Mind you, this was to be this generation of pulk-sled's last hurrah.)
Alas, we arrived at Piute Pass near dark on the first day, and so, chose to camp at the first suitable melted out little island- just a half mile into the basin.
One last point on pulk or no pulk: had we done the more ambitious trip from Piute Pass over Puppet Pass, down to French Canyon, and out via Pine Creek- the pulk would have definitely been a great asset- they are at their best on long, levelish, and downhill tours- think Badger Pass, and Little Lakes Valley trips.

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These cliffs of Glacier Divide were reminiscent of those I'd just seen, and so desired to hike under, in Crabtree Lakes area, far to the south. G.Divide is beautiful in the morning light.

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The obvious pass above us is Alpine Col, which connects Evolution Valley with H.Basin.


Okay, so the conditions around Piute Pass are this: one can park at the standard North Lake TH area, and can also run your packs up to the end of the campground by car, which saves a dreary half mile of slogging on the gravel road. The trail is pretty clear of snow, and not too wet and muddy all the way to the flat below Loch Leven. From there on the patchy snow increases, and at Piute Lake, it comes to dominate the trail.
The pass itself is melted out rock, but only for about 30 feet, and then it is all snow (cups!!) throughout Humphrey's Basin.
The ski touring could be much improved if the Forest Service would invest in a quiet electric "Zamboni" sort of machine, and level out all the sun cups. Paul, the great believer in skiing and more skiing, should tell us what the best ski equipment is to handle mile after mile of sun cups. my longer, skinnier cross country skis worked okay as long as I aimed them across the run of the cups; small disasters would occur to me when I got the skis running parallel, falling into the cavernous troughs of "sun-valleys." Lizzie left the skiing out entirely during the hard snow early morning period, though her shorter, heavier Karhu Pavos performed better than my skinny skis. But Paul, wouldn't longer, and slightly wider skis be best- 195+ and 60-70cm wide?

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This is the view south from our camp near Piute Pass. Our camp came with a climbing boulder- "Thanks glacier!"

The first morning the sunlit walls of Glacier Divide beckoned us, and we cramponed up around first frozen Lake Muriel, and up to the big upper Lake Goethe. We took a look at Alpine Col, which I had crossed before in summer, and it looked very nice- un-corniced and passable. We got a look at Snow-tongue Pass, and it looked quite a bit rougher going- though it may in fact be safer and easier at this time of year when the treacherous loose rock is covered by snow. I would want an ice ax at least for that crossing.
We got up on the soft ridge between the Goethe / Muriel Basin and the "Wahoo Lakes" Basin to the west, and had a great view all around the mountainous margins of the wide H.Basin. The sight of the turquoise melt zone on the edge of Lake Muriel, with great Mt Humphreys in the background, was striking enough to make the whole trip worthwhile already!

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Meltwater along the edge of Lake Muriel, with stunning Mt Humphreys in the background. One of the best climbs in the Central Sierra.

For wildlife we saw the usual Belding ground squirrels, a marmot or two, some alpine chippies, Clark's nutcrackers, juncos, pipits and of course- our favorite high country bird- the rosy finches. The wildlife sightings got better and better as this trip went on. More about that in the next segment.
That's enough for the first couple of fine days. We were ecstatic to be all together in the mountains again.
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Last edited by Harlen on Sat Jul 15, 2023 7:15 am, edited 17 times in total.
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Re: Trip Report: Over Piute Pass to Humphrey's Basin

Post by Harlen »

This section would seem to be a tad "pulk-unfriendly." :) rlown

Check the photo you sent in the Piute Pass Conditions thread Russ, and see the difference between the "pulk unfriendly" terrain of summer, and what we had, as seen in photo number 5 in the TR. There is still a lot of snow. It is the same place on the trail isn't it? As our trip turned out though, the pulk was certainly questionable
Last edited by Harlen on Thu Sep 16, 2021 8:14 pm, edited 6 times in total.
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Re: Trip Report: Over Piute Pass to Humphrey's Basin

Post by rlown »

Nice report!!! Zamboni, Ha! :lol:

I saw the pic that you're talking about and that is a LOT of snow. September looks better everyday, fishing wise.
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Re: Trip Report: Over Piute Pass to Humphrey's Basin

Post by astrogerly »

Awesome report! I'm ready to grab my AT setup and head up there right now (if my doc would clear me from my ankle surgery). Looks like there is a good chance there will be some snow left for Dave and I to ski on our anniversary... if I want to carry my skis on my back for a few miles ;)
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Re: Trip Report: Over Piute Pass to Humphrey's Basin

Post by paul »

Harlen - nice trip! At some point - and I suspect it's about now - skis just stop being fun if the suncups get big enough. Longer and wider ? I don't know if it would make much difference. You can thrash along, and I suppose you could also lug snowshoes and use them in the afternoon. For me, at that point it's more a case of start early and just walk while the snow is firm, and if it gets too soft then make camp. I'm sure there is some good skiable snow left on some aspects and some elevations, but I'd probably have to be a better skier than I am to take advantage of that.

Just to give some perspective on snow compared to a couple years ago, I was in there in late April/early May of 2014 and there was less snow than what you had. On the way out I was walking before Piute Lake.
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Piute Pass to Humphrey's Basin, part 2

Post by Harlen »

The wildlife sightings got better and better: An overbold snowshoe hare bounced into our camp, or near enough- within 40 feet! We'd never seen one do anything but either hide motionless, or bolt off like a shot! It circled the camp- this was after sunset, so we could follow its eye shine with our headlamps. Luckily the dogs didn't chase it. Perhaps a very young, inexperienced hare. Next up were a family of ptarmigan, five of them- still in mostly white plumage.
On the third day, at the beginning of our ski tour to the far side of the basin, we all saw four healthy doe deer crossing the snowfields above us- once again our loud "no chasing!" worked on the young dogs.
Same day, we first heard, and then saw below us- coyotes! Their symphony sounded like a pack of six or seven, but we only saw two individuals- mature adults. We looked over our shoulders for little Wolfie's sake, but they seemed intent on reaching the forest of Piute Creek.
Finally, we saw an interesting hawk that I tried to turn into a ferruginous hawk- a species I have seen around Mono Lake, but with further study, it seems more likely that it was an immature, light-phase red-tailed hawk. Whatever it was, it was a beautiful sight for us bird-lovers.

The rest of this trip we will tell in pictures:
ian skisDSCN0532.jpg
Early AM, hard, icy snow cups made for awkward skiing. I enjoy pain more than Lizzie, so I chose to set out on skis while she walked with the dogs. I am pointing my ski pole to steep Snow-Tongue Pass, part of Roper's High Route.

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Here are those four deer.

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Lizzie and the dogs gazing at giant Desolation Lake. We had hoped to camp by the outlet, which did have open water sources, and to ski the vast flat area around this famous lake- it is nearly a mile long, and has brilliant views all around.

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More open water can be found here and there in H.Basin- we never had to boil snow.

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Can you find the tiny coyote?

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L. and dogs on Puppet Pass- another piece of Roper's High Route. The best way down is tucked up near Peak 12,228- which is the peak in the foreground.

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The view to the north, from on top of Peak 12,228- with Bear Creek Spire in the upper left, and Pine Creek Pass below and to the right. Frozen L Lake is in the lower right of the picture. To the south, we could see Mt. Sill and the Palisades.

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Wolfie and Mount Humphreys share a similar profile.

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Ian on the the camp boulder, Bear wondering WTH?!

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Towing twenty pounds in the pulk back down the east side by Piute Lake. It soon changed to just ten pounds when we left most of the snow behind. It was worn thin by the time we reached the bottom, but its days were done already.

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Last photo of the turquoise edge of Muriel Lake, and the basin's namesake mountain.

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The last night's sunset.

We'd be glad to answer any questions about conditions, or trip options beyond H.Basin. Thanks for your comments, the Harlens.
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Last edited by Harlen on Thu Sep 16, 2021 8:17 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Harlen
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Re: Trip Report: Over Piute Pass to Humphrey's Basin

Post by Harlen »

Thanks Paul, but what sort of skis were you referring to when you stated: "....I am firmly convinced that skis are the way to go - but lighter skis."

And anyone who has admired your "2011 Trans Sierra Trip Report," and looked it over as many times as some of us have, will suffer your : ".... but I'd probably have to be a better skier than I am..." humility as so many grains of salt- we can see the fine lines you carve.

BTW, was 2011 a snow year comparable to the past winter?
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Re: Trip Report: Over Piute Pass to Humphrey's Basin

Post by kpeter »

Wow. Those images really bring home the snowpack. And its beauty.

So...on your way up to Loch Leven you noted that the snow began to dominate the trail between Loch Leven and Piute. That would put it at about the 10700 zone. But the trail is on the south side of the slope. When you looked across the valley to the south, were the north facing slopes covered earlier than that?
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Re: Trip Report: Over Piute Pass to Humphrey's Basin

Post by paul »

Yeah, I think 2011 was pretty close. I finished my trans sierra on May 26 that year and snowpack was still massive.
The skis I use are Atomic Rainers. I don't think they make them anymore; about the lightest metal edge skis I could find. I would say optimized for rolling terrain, a little sketchy on the steeper stuff. As a skier, I am a damn good navigator. At the resort I can't handle anything tougher than a moderate blue run. I ski to be in the mountains, not the other way around; so for me the gear is about getting there and back rather than about downhill performance. I figure I'm going downhill about 5% of the time at the very most, and I'd rather be more efficient on the flats and uphills even if it means I have to walk down some stuff that I might be able to ski down with burlier gear.
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Re: Trip Report: Over Piute Pass to Humphrey's Basin

Post by Harlen »

"I ski to be in the mountains, not the other way around..." Paul

That's Lizzie and me exactly Paul. In fact, neither of us has ever spent even a single day in a resort on a groomed slope. Nothing against it per se, but it just isn't for us. So, we're learning the downhill skiing slowly as we go. We just want to be solid enough skiers to travel far, and not break a leg out there.
What binding set up do you guys use? I have these burly- but heavy and stiff- "Hammerhead" bindings, which are good for learning to Tele turn, but I am afraid they are about the last choice for trans Sierra travel. I have a workshop full of different bindings to choose from, just need to make the switch to lighter, more flexible cable bindings. Thanks.
Last edited by Harlen on Thu Nov 21, 2019 8:48 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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