Calling all Yosemite experts

[Hobbes]

Alright everyone, as we know, one of the best things about HST is chiming in and providing advice on hiking ideas, route selection, and other insider tips for those searching for expert information.

While I have a pretty good idea of the eastern Sierra - including Yosemite - I haven't been to the Valley in over 10 years. Each summer we spend a few days car camping up in Tuolumne meadows, and in recent years my two brothers have been making it as well. My middle brother is a long time backpacker from the 70s, and is the classic medium-heavy low mileage type. My youngest brother is a corp dude, and followed a more traditional path by focusing on improving his golf game.

Last year (June), I almost had them convinced to do a day hike from TM to the Valley. A couple of things put an end to that "beer talk": my wife didn't want to spend the day alone; we would have gotten into the Valley after the last bus had left, leaving us either hitch-hiking or trying to get an Uber back; low miles bro wouldn't have made it, and younger brother - who is competitive like me - might have screwed up his knee determined to stay on pace.

Now, fast forward to this upcoming summer (August). In discussing our plans, the subject of hiking from TM to the Valley came up again, only this time as an overnight trip. Since this idea isn't suddenly being thrown out around the campfire, my wife is ok if we spend one night away; the daily mileage will be shorter; and we can get into the Valley earlier in order to catch the bus back to TM. Since we now have multiple options, it's not necessarily imperative that we make a beeline down the JMT.

So, I put it to the collective wisdom of the board: if you had two days & one night to travel from TM to the Valley, which route(s) would you prefer? Would you hike up to Glen Aulin and then come down via Clouds rest? Would you hike down the JMT and swing over from Sunrise to Clouds rest? Would you take the trail down to Merced/Echo valley/Little Yosemite valley from Sunrise?

What if we scored walk-in permits for Half-dome? Would the advice be to just slog it out on the JMT? Of is HD even worth it (given the crowds) if we could skip on by a more obscure side route? What a about camp spots? I know you need to be a few miles outside of the Valley in order to disperse camp - I don't think anyone wants to stay in a campground.

Here's a suggested itinerary:
D1 - 15+ miles - leave mid-morning, camp
D2 - 7-12+ miles - leave early, get bus by noon

Thanx in advance for any suggestions, tips, insights or other insider information. For your troubles, here's a shot east of Sonora pass taken on 6/17/2011 - a heavy snow year like this year. We were driving from the Bay area to SoCal, and weren't sure about Tioga (it opened the next day). I recall the W Walker river was completely impossible to cross if there hadn't been a bridge. So, I would expect the Kern, Kings & SJ to present similar obstacles for early season hikers.

[AlmostThere]

If I were restricted to that area I would do Clouds Rest and down the JMT. Stay the night at Sunrise Creek or possibly tank up water, go a little off trail to the viewpoint just off the junction to Sunrise Lakes, and wake up to sunrise over Tenaya Canyon.

I don't think you could pay me to go near HD again, unless we had an overnight permit for the Diving Board.

[markskor]

TM to the Valley?
Obvious first thought - the freeway. Sunrise TH (Tenaya Lake) to lower Sunrise. If it were me, rest a bit there and tank up on water last stream before CR (carry a gallon jug)... stay the night atop Clouds Rest (or close to) that night. Skip HD and then down the Mist next day.
However, a shorter but less crowded trip starts out Porcupine Flats TH on 120 (the one with the chitter) and a lot of possible variations from there - do North Dome and Indian Arch...backtrack to top of Snow Creek...good place to stay as good water source. Can go down Snow Creek or, if desired, walk the rim trail west to Yosemite Falls and down.
Or start Yosemite Falls TH off of 120, hike to top of falls and then over to Snow Creek and down that way.

[oldranger]

If you have 2 people that are not hiking regularly I think even 2 days between TM and the Valley is asking for potential trouble. An easier trip would be up the Tuolumne across to Evelyn/Vogelsang then back to TM. Just a thought.

[markskor]

Porcupine Flat to Valley via Snow Creek...maybe 14 - 15 miles total, and even though the most switch-backed-trail in the park...it is all downhill.
FYI, this particular hike has been my usual Yosemite warm up hike the last 3 years...really enjoy the views of HD and ND (see art) from the top of the Snow Creek plateau.

nd.jpg

[Hobbes]

Thanx for the input so far. I knew I could count on some expert local insights. OR, middle brother might balk at anything over 10 mpd, but younger brother runs around 5 miles a few times a week, and can easily do 10 mile day hikes on the weekends. Our packs should be less than 15lbs, so that won't really be an issue.

So far it seems like the consensus is:
- avoid Half-dome (all agree?)
- if we head out from TM, go up to Cloud's Rest for the night, finish on the Mist trail
- cut out some miles and start from the Sunrise TH to CR, make sure to bring liter bladders/bottles, finish on Mist
- for a shorter hike, start @ Porcupine, spend the night @ Snow creek, then finish the hike @ Yosemite falls. Or, skip Snow creek, spend the night around N Dome, then down to the falls

AT, what do you think about Porcupine instead of the JMT? OR, the lower miles would work for both brothers. Summary: start at either Sunrise or Porcupine THs, avoid HD! If Sunrise/CR, finish on Mist, if Porcupine, camp @ Snow creek or N Dome. Correct?

Again, thanx for the tips.

[AlmostThere]

I think that going down Snow Creek with anyone with any degree of wacky knee is going to kill them. Mist Trail is also especially and drastically knee-challenging but for other reasons -- the steps are jarring and wearing a full backpack adds several orders of magnitude of jar to the equation. They will of course forgive you, because who would be able to predict how sore the human body can be?

I would take people who refuse to hike with packs in preparation on something else. Also, the bear-can-throwing bear is likely to keep people from camping on the Snow Creek plateau again. That will restrict you to staying on the shrubby shoulder of North Dome, which will be nice enough.

[Wandering Daisy]

The Mist Trail is great in August -you will get a wonderfull cooling off! All trails down to Yosemite Valley are steep. You avoid knee problems by going slowly and taking sufficient rests, and using trekking poles. If someone has had past knee problems take a knee brace. The Mist Trail is worth the extra steepness. Even though you camp, you can keep packs very light - no need for a tent, hardly a need for a sleeping bag. That will also help on knees. Take a filter, like the Sawyer Squeeze, so you can get water along the way. This year, I think the streams will be running fine.

I have not been up those trails since the big fire. Not sure if it has made the JMG above Clouds rest junction ugly or not. It has burned Lost Valley.

The Snow Creek Trail is brutal in the afternoon - hot and dry as the sun beats down! This is not one I would do in August. But if you do the trail from Olmstead Point the top of the little dome half a mile east of Mt. Watkins has a fantastic view down to Tenaya Canyon.

I know this sounds crazy, but personally, I would rather get a crack-of-dawn start and go up from the valley. But then I have little problem with elevation gain, and am almost slower going down, because of old knees. But, even recently with my knees, I have prefered going down the Mist Trail rather than the JMT. It is a lot shorter.

[AlmostThere]

People rarely listen to me when I explain things like pacing. If you can get your friends to slow way down on the steps of the Mist trail that would be great -- I've never had any luck with telling any newbie, particularly the male kind, much of anything. Which often ends with "well, I should have listened to you I guess" or never having them come out with me again, or them refusing to tell me they are in pain and leaving me to glean that they are based on the sheer volume of the ibuprofen they are inhaling.

Such is life with a backpacking habit.

[Hobbes]

Hey this is great - thanx again for all the insightful comments & ideas.

OK, I guess I'm leaning with AT & Daisy about ending on the Mist trail - especially in August. I think the last time I was on Mist was over 20 years ago. And yes AT, if we start from Sunrise TH, we'll be looking at shorter miles, so that should help out. Besides, my middle brother is adamant about taking breaks and hanging out - a classic slow cruiser who likes to stop and smell the flowers.

WD, while hiking up to TM might make more sense from a purely physical backpacking perspective, from a casual pacing and scheduling POV, hiking down to the Valley is a better fit. We won't have to rush out in the morning, so my wife can enjoy socializing while we leisurely finish breakfast. We won't have far to go, and we can hike till early afternoon. Then, we can jam a bit the next morning, hit Mist around noon, and then relax, have a beer (or two) before catching the bus, and show up back @ our campsite in time for dinner. (My wife is a great cook, both at home, traveling [we usually rent apartments] and camping.) Showing up tired, dirty, thirsty & hungry in time for dinner is a great experience, from either surfing or hiking.

OK, so everyone is on board for Sunrise TH to CR, spend the night, then finish at HI via Mist?

Bonus question: anyone try and use Uber while in the Valley? I would guess that maybe some staffers on their days off might periodically do a few drives to make a little more $cash.