High Sierra Topix

That is MacLeod receiving the bird in the TR but that's not me. We ascended the eastern side of the pass which is pretty straightforward talus and descended the west. The western side is very steep and loose. It was impossible not to knock down a lot of rock so we took turns descending. I think the pass would be easier the direction we took (east to west). I was undecided about the route we took versus Thunder Pass/Longley combo but decided last minute that I didn't like the up and down required to via Longley. I regretted that decision almost immediately. I haven't been over Longley but everything I've heard is that the cornice is quite small and easily bypassed. The approach from South Guard looked like a walk up.

No I'm not an Oregon duck, but I have other connections to the species!

Okay good information. Thanks!

I am bringing an ice ax just for the record and I definitely believe it will be necessary on certain passes. Longley may be one of them.


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alpinemike wrote:I am bringing an ice ax just for the record and I definitely believe it will be necessary on certain passes. Longley may be one of them.

Good to know. Do you bring crampons or microspikes at all or just an ice axe?

I brought microspike type things when I went 2 weeks ago into the Ansel Adams wilderness to climb North Glacier Pass and Ritter-Banner Saddle from the Lake Catherine side. They were helpful but not necessary. I just waited for the snow to soften up enough. Since it's not late season there should not be any ice unless it's early in the morning. On this trip I will not be bringing them since I already have 45 pounds of gear. That does include my 14 days of food. I like having an ice ax because it provides a good deal of safety at least for me. I know I can self arrest and I'm sure the conditions will warrant that. I'm leaving for it in the next 3 hours so I'll report when I get back.

Sounds good. Good luck and have a great trip!